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CHILD'S PLAY

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Practically everywhere in Beijing welcomes children, whether it is a posh restaurant, a trendy cocktail bar or a humble dai pai dong.

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The one-child policy may well be a factor in this warm attitude towards youngsters. Whatever the reason, it means families visiting the city are assured of a great time. During less-busy periods, restaurant staff will often volunteer to act as de-facto babysitters, playing hide-and-seek, or other games, while the grown-ups enjoy a cocktail and peruse the menu.

But, be warned, some of the big-ticket imperial items are not much fun for very young children: from a tot's perspective, places such as the Temple of Heaven, Forbidden City and Summer Palace are just big, imposing buildings that involve a lot of walking. The exception is the Great Wall, where children have the thrilling option of going up by ski lift and coming down by toboggan on a metal chute.

The best way to see Beijing with young ones is to mix and match serious history with contemporary fun. Go to the Forbidden City, then rent a motorboat for a chug around nearby Hou Hai Lake, see the Temple of the Sun in Ritan Park and then check out the children's playground with its antiquated rides, bouncy castle and trampolines.

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