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Bouchon Bistro Francais

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49 Elgin Street, SoHo Tel: 2525 9300 Open: noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm

Cuisine: French bistro food

Price: about HK$300 without drinks and the service charge.

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Ambience: the cosy, low-lit eatery (right) is the very picture of a Parisian bistro, with dark wood moulding, brass furnishings, antique-look ceiling fans and vintage plaques and posters. Outdoor seating is in the small courtyard area at the back of the space, conjoined with next door's Soho Spice, Bouchon's sister restaurant in the Dining Concepts group.

Pros: the decor and classic bistro menu do much to transport diners onto an idyllic Parisian side street, as does the French accent of the maaire d'. My guest and I were surrounded with tables of French diners.

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Cons: service was friendly and accommodating, but as things got busier, the time between courses stretched a little too much, and empty glasses and used plates idled on our small tabletop. The relaxed atmosphere also gave way to more bustling and the occasional sound of falling plates coming from the food service window.

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