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Time flies for watchmaker

Breitling pays homage to aviation with new, updated versions of some of its chronograph watches unveiled at this year's BaselWorld.

The release of two new Transocean models celebrates a milestone in Breitling's history. The original made its debut in 1958 and guaranteed its place in aviation history with a chronometer-certified self-winding movement, and built-in protection against shocks, magnetic waves and water.

The latest Transocean takes its cue from the original with an understated cambered dial in black or silver mercury, and applied hour markers and baton-style hands making it easier to read. A subtle cross on the dial also harks back to the original and divides the dial into four, giving it an original aesthetic twist.

Driven by the Caliber 01, the self-winding Transocean Chronograph was developed and produced in Breitling workshops and made its first appearance two years ago.

Precision, function and reliability are at the heart of the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute-certified movement. It includes a patented self-centring device that resets the hammers and an index-assembly system allowing users to adjust it according to their needs. A 70-hour power reserve, quarter-second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers, and calendar are all features of the movement.

Design features include a steel or red gold case with a bevelled bezel and streamlined lugs. Classic round push-pieces take their cues from the original Transocean. Large, baton hands are updated and easier to read with a luminescent material, and applied hour-markers and counters decorated with a recessed spiral motif and the initial B identify it as a Breitling watch.

The Navitimer is Breitling's most iconic model and the latest version is historic for the brand as it is the first in the line to be fitted with a Breitling movement. The original Navitimer was launched in 1952 and was lauded for its circular slide rule, which allowed pilots to calculate navigational aspects, such as speed, distance and fuel consumption.

The Navitimer 01, driven by the Caliber 01, comes with a larger case in steel or red gold and bi-directional rotating bezel and circular slide rule, black dial and white numerals.

Other new releases include the travel-friendly Chronomat GMT. Driven by the Breitling Caliber 04 (a development of the Caliber 01), the watch has a 70-hour power reserve plus additional features including a 24-hour time display.

When time zones are changed the local hour hand disconnects from the gear train to maintain the precision and performance of the chronograph.

Breitling's system used in this design is awaiting patent approval. A steel case surrounds a unidirectional rotating bezel; the bezel is partially covered by an inner one with 24-hour graduated scale giving the dial a three-dimensional effect.

On the dial, a first hour hand matches the minute hand and runs over a 12-hour scale. The second hour hand runs over the 24-hour mode and is marked with a red triangle at its tip. The hour hands are synchronised when owners are in their home countries.

The 24-hour hand keeps track of time in the owner's home country. The 12-hour hand, meanwhile, can be adjusted to local time zones; the date display is indexed to the 12-hour hand and changes automatically.

Breitling for Bentley is extended with two sports watches that pay tribute to the legendary Bentley Boys who won the Le Mans 24 Hours race on four occasions from 1924 to 1930. The Bentley Barnato includes a 30-second chronograph system characterised by a central hand that sweeps around the dial in 30 seconds instead of the usual 60. This allows times to be measured to within 1/8 of a second.

The watch comes with a steel case, black or silver dial, tone-on-tone counters and a transparent caseback to show off a wheel-rim shaped oscillating weight. A red gold edition of 500 pieces is also available.

Woolf Barnato, the son of diamond magnate Barney Barnato, was a Bentley Boy and the steering wheel of the car he drove to win in Le Mans inspired the design for the Bentley Barnato Racing watch.

Open work on disc-type counters are reminiscent of the wheels. Two red triangles on the counters replace the usual pointer counters and display the hours and minutes of measured time. Like the Bentley Barnato, the Racing model includes a 30-second chronograph and comes in steel or a red gold 500-piece limited edition.

Bentley Supersports Light Body is the final release by Breitling for Bentley. Finnish driver Juha Kankkunen wore the watch during his successful attempt to set a new world record by driving on ice at more than 330km/h in northern Finland.

The 1,000-piece limited edition watch with an ultra-light titanium case and Breitling dashboard clock is fitted with a self-winding movement with central 60-minute totaliser, a combined 60-minute and 12-hour totaliser. Time can be measured to 1/4 of a second.

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