11/F, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Cubus, Causeway Bay Tel: 2577 0699 Open: 11.45am-3pm, 6.30pm-midnight Cuisine: Italian Price: about HK$750 for a three-course dinner without drinks and the service charge. Ambience: the main dining area (right) is cosy, and tall but narrow windows give a bird's eye view of Causeway Bay. From the main dining room you get a glimpse into the kitchen through a wide window. Pros: it's hard to choose a meal because everything on the menu sounds so tempting. Cons: at these prices - where the cheapest appetiser is HK$180 - you should expect some refined touches, starting with the most basic: the water. Our waiter put a lemon slice in my guest's glass of fizzy water: the lemon still had its seeds, which should have been removed because their bitterness affects the taste of the water. The bread basket contained bread sticks that were flavourless, as if someone had forgotten to add salt; and the sliced loaf and focaccia had thick hard layers at the top and bottom, as if they had been reheated too many times. The desserts need work: lime and lemon tart with vanilla ice cream (HK$88) tasted more like cheesecake with a faint amount of citrus, and flourless chocolate cake with bitter orange marmalade (HK$88) lacked a deep, chocolate flavour. Recommended dishes: smoked ox tongue salad with cherry tomatoes and Tuscan green sauce (HK$180) showcased top-notch ingredients, especially the green salad and tomatoes, all of which were fresh and flavourful. But at this price, and for four thin slices of tongue, they could have trimmed the meat better and removed the dark parts and fatty bits. My guest's chitarrini egg pasta with pancetta, parmesan and black truffle (HK$268) had al dente pasta and just enough of the flavourful sauce to coat it lightly. I was excited to see skate wing (HK$360, above left) on the menu; it's not easy to find because the fish is highly perishable, which gives it a strong ammonia smell. This did not have even the faintest whiff of ammonia, and was served with a light white wine sauce that could have used a touch more salt. What else? There are two private rooms, plus a nice little terrace that can be used for private parties.