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Ramps and pancetta frittata, and ume sake or vodka: two seasonal fruit and vegetable recipes

When seasonal gems turn up in the wet markets, it's best to stock up. Susan Jung shares some recipes for her recent finds: ramps and ume

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Ramps and pancetta frittata, and ume sake or vodka: two seasonal fruit and vegetable recipes

While I love the idea of food foraging - searching mountains and forests for wild ingredients - I'd probably hate it if I were forced to do it, especially if I had to depend on it for survival. Instead, I 'forage' through the wet markets, knowing that some of my favourite vendors occasionally get very limited supplies of local, seasonal fruit and vegetables.

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In the past month, I've been thrilled to find ramps (also known as wild onion or wild garlic), ume (almost always identified as green plums, although there's a compelling argument that they're actually green apricots - in fact they resemble apricots, too), mulberries (which look like blackberries) and the tiniest (gumball-sized) new potatoes. Over the next month or so I expect to also find yang mei (Chinese bayberries), spring ginger and ripe apricots. When I find these ingredients, I buy them immediately, knowing from past experience that if I wait, I will probably miss out.

Ramps and pancetta frittata (pictured)

I had an e-mail conversation with a friend living in New York City, who wrote about finding ramps at the Union Square Greenmarket. I told her I'd bought some as well, from a wet market vendor in Quarry Bay. We compared prices: she paid US$3 for 170 grams of ramps, while I paid only HK$7 for 500 grams. If you're lucky enough to find ramps, make sure you wash them well because they're a wild vegetable.

Oil, for the skillet

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125 grams thickly sliced (about 3mm thick) pancetta

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