Asian grapevine
Vinexpo's focus on China this year was remarkable - so intense, it seemed almost obsessive.
Walking around the 40,000-square-metre exhibition area at the most important global wine trade show, which is held every two years in Bordeaux, France, I noticed signs in Chinese that read: 'We speak Chinese.' When I peered into the stands with these signs, there were Asian faces who greeted me with 'Ni hao!' Some of the Chinese-speaking staff were full-time employees of their companies, but many more were part-timers employed to translate and assist in making business deals. I wondered whether the French made such a fuss when the Americans entered the fine wine market in the 1980s.
During the week, I met so many Hong Kong and Chinese mainland visitors to Vinexpo that it was like a mini-reunion every day. According to the organisers, there were 17,910 foreign visitors to Vinexpo this year and China-based visitors were at the top of the list - nearly 3,000, about one in six! Americans were second but trailed way behind with only 1,403 visitors and Britain was third with 1,342 visitors.
Many seminars focused on all things Chinese: Wines of Argentina held a tasting and seminar called 'Argentina for China'; La Revue du Vin de France just launched the Chinese version of its publication in May and held a seminar called 'The Chinese and the Taste of Wine'; Sauternes and Barsac sweet wine producers held a food and wine pairing session that paired spicy Sichuan dishes with a wide range of their sweet wines.
Except for the Sauternes and Chinese food pairing seminar, I didn't attend the many China-focused sessions. I was intrigued that the people who were presenting these seminars were not Chinese but rather new players in the crowded mainland Chinese market. For French and international wine producers, these seminars probably offered some real-life experience and insights into doing business in China and understanding the marketplace.
The large Bordeaux negociants and export-minded chateaux do not need these seminars or much advice. They know first-hand what moves the market and how to sell to the key cities in China. It is likely that at least one Chinese-speaking representative works full time for them and the most forward-thinking will send their next-generation budding director or manager to a major Chinese city to live. Chateau Margaux has a representative in Hong Kong, Chateau Latour has one in south China and all the super-ambitious chateaux like Cos d'Estournel have someone in place locally in the region. When I spoke with chateaux owners, they proudly told me about their fluent Chinese-speaking assistant, relative or child.
It wasn't just during the day that one was cognisant of the pandering to the Chinese. During the many evening dinners and gala events, there was a clear homage to China. On the evening finale, the Fete de la Fleur, the decoration along the large outdoor marquee consisted of life-sized Chinese terracotta soldiers, and 1,500 guests that night dined under the stars with the entire French menu translated into Chinese.