What do the Mad Hatter, Michelle Obama and Malcolm McLaren have in common? Not much it would seem, apart from award-winning jewellery designer, Tom Binns. 'I thought it was great when Michelle Obama wore my jewellery to meet the Queen!' says Binns of the US president and first lady's recent British photo op with the royals.
Standing next to the Queen in her priceless crown jewels, a statuesque Obama, not to be outdone, wore a bold Tom Binns layered rhinestone necklace with a black floor-length Ralph Lauren gown. 'It was almost like she was saying, 'You've got your bling; I've got mine,'' adds Binns grinning. 'That's who the Tom Binns woman is. Independent, a bit fearless, and not afraid to be different.'
For those who haven't yet heard of Tom Binns, he is the man who almost single-handedly inspired a new approach to 'precious' jewellery. During his 30-year career, the enfant terrible's edgy, tough luxe aesthetic has gained huge influence. The results of Binns' eccentric imagination have made it around the necks and lobes of not only the First Lady but Britney Spears, Rihanna, Beyonce, Avril Lavigne and Lady Gaga. Screen queens Michelle Pfeiffer, Natalie Portman and Emma Watson have worn his jewellery. Even the Queen of Hearts (of the Helena Bonham Carter persuasion) in Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland inspired a set of Binns' crown jewels.
Starting his career in 1981, Binns' rejection of standardised structures in design would prove a bold move. Treating treasure like trash, and transforming 'trash' into treasures, Binns pioneered the junk-jewellery genre by creating elegant slices of anarchy. He sealed his punk credentials by working with McClaren and Vivienne Westwood early in his career.
'Working with them gave me a bit of cool at the time,' says Binns. 'I was good friends with Malcolm for years, up until his death... Vivienne, she's a bit like a slice of lemon in your gin and tonic - you're not sure if you really need it there.'
In 2004, he officially formed his company with ex-fashion model and now chief executive Cristina Viera Newton, and began winning mainstream design awards. Binns had spawned a steady stream of devoted fans. Today he is all cheeky Irish banter, dirty jokes and a no bullsh*t attitude. 'Ohh,' he says, checking out a stunning Jackie O-esque, 40-something lady eyeing up his collection at On Pedder recently. 'Maybe I should give her a guided tour.'
The unlikely design hero is a Belfast-born lad from a 'very nice, ordinary working-class Irish family' and is now based in Venice Beach, Los Angeles. Graduating in jewellery design from Middlesex University in London, Binns jokingly admits: 'I was a bit older than everyone else, but it was great because it meant that I could take advantage of all the younger girls.'