Just as parts of Hong Kong are separated by the harbour, so the Bordeaux wine-making region of France is split into the Left Bank and Right Bank. Both sides are home to some of the world's most expensive wines, but the Right Bank garners attention for only a handful of brands: Cheval Blanc, Petrus, Angelus, Ausone and Le Pin. Perhaps that's because Right Bank vineyards are smaller, the chateaux more modest and budgets for travel to Asia necessarily tighter. One of the two key Right Bank districts is Saint-Emilion, a medieval village crafted from limestone, with steep cobblestone streets, and almost certainly the most handsome in Bordeaux. Saint-Emilion has a classification system that is reviewed every decade or so, and not without controversy. Keep in mind there are more than 200 wines designated as grand cru here, making that a basic designation in Saint-Emilion. The more lofty designations are grand cru class?s (53 wines) and the coveted premiers grand cru class?s (13). Two of these are further honoured as premiers grand cru class?A: the famed Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Ausone. In the Middle Ages, a group known as the Jurade was granted a charter to govern Saint-Emilion by England's King John - England then having regency over Bordeaux as part of its Aquitaine holdings. The Jurade's duties included exercising quality control over the region's red wine. The order still exists in the form of a ceremonial fraternity, which promotes the wines of Saint-Emilion. At this year's F?te de Printemps (spring festival), during Vinexpo, the Jurade hosted a dinner featuring the much-lauded 2000 vintage. The wines listed below are in order of preference, with Ch?teau Canon la Gaffeli?re taking star position. Most are supplied by a range of fine-wine importers in Hong Kong, but are also available through international channels such as www.wine-searcher.com . Ch?teau Canon la Gaffeli?re 2000, Saint-?milion Grand Cru Class? Traditional and classic. Pretty restrained fruit with earthy notes but penetrating palate fruit. Well structured and classic with an impressive finish. Superb. Ch?teau Dassault 2000, Saint-?milion Grand Cru Class? Rich, plush and lush with delicate oak notes. High-intensity fruit, modern style. Ripe and rich with a lovely fruit purity, and a dry austere finish. One of the loveliest wines of the night. Aur?lius 2000, Saint-?milion Grand Cru Dark fruit, stony and complex. Almost Left Bank Pauillac in style. Beeswax notes emerged as the wine evolved. Showing excellent maturation, great length and complexity. Ch?teau Grand Corbin-Despagne 2000, Saint-?milion Grand Cru This chateau was upgraded to grand cru class?in 2006, which means past vintages might be bargains. Spicy, peppery with earthy notes. Sandy texture, rich and dense mid-palate fruit with graphite notes. Firm, elegant palate, full-bodied with excellent length. A lovely wine. Ch?teau Lyonnat 2000, Lussac Saint-?milion Plummy, rich, dense spiced plums, full-bodied. Fine textured and charming. Reaching maturation, so drink soon. Clos Fourtet 2000, Saint-?milion Premier Grand Cru Class? Complex, earthy. Excellent oak integration. Classic, firm palate, sandy, grainy texture, plush fruit, round and full. Ch?teau Haut-Bernat 2000, Puisseguin Saint-?milion Quiet, lean fruit with stony notes. Red berries with a sandy texture through the finish. Moderate length. Ch?teau Beau-S?jour B?cot 2000, Saint-?milion Premier Grand Cru Class? Green and smoky notes, firm tannic structure suggesting a substantial use of cabernet in the blend. Ch?teau Soutard 2000, Saint-?milion Grand Cru Class? At first sip, did not offer much more than bland flatbread, but as the evening progressed, it began to offer more, though still retaining its quiet, subdued nature with fine, sandy tannins. Debra Meiburg is a master of wine ( www.DebraMasterofWine.com )
