The wu yu (threadfin fish) is not much of a looker. With its large mouth and grey-black colour, it resembles an overgrown tadpole. But it more than compensates for its ugliness with a succulent and slightly earthy taste. Although it is delicious in congee, the fish is best when deep fried and drizzled with soy sauce. Wu yu has a thick spine and small soft bones that become crisp when fried. To best complement deep-fried wu yu a wine needs plenty of purity and a soil-driven terroir minerality. These rieslings are some of the best of those produced in the picturesque villages of Alsace, France.
Domaine Weinbach Cuvee Sainte Catherine riesling 2007
Many Alsatian producers sold their soul by giving in to demand for semi-sweet wines. The best labels, however, resisted and they're now reaping the benefits of staying true to their turbulent but delicious heritage. This wine comes from one of the most important families in Alsace. For the richest vintages, grapes for the Cuvee Sainte Catherine are picked late (just before November 25, the feast day of St Catherine), so they make the most of the autumn sun. What makes this wine special is its purity and supple mineral definition. It make a delicious complement to the freshness of the fish and depth of the soy. Try the Cuvee Sainte Catherine with five to 10 years of bottle age, and be amazed at the freshness and layered complexity.
Available for HK$465 from Ponti Wine Cellars (tel: 2810 1000)
Jubilee Hugel riesling 2004
In the handsome village of Riquewihr stands the historic house of Hugel, which contains the world's oldest oak barrel (constructed in 1715) as certified by Guinness World Records. Old oak barrels can be used to ferment delicate white wines because the insides become lined with tartaric crystals from the grapes. During fermentation, the crystals stick to the insides of the barrel and prevent the juice making contact with the oak. This still fresh riesling is a great accompaniment for crispy fried wu yu. The caramelised taste works well with the richness of the 2004 vintage. It has plenty of mouth-watering acidity to further enhance the fish's succulence and sweetness.