India was once known as the 'land of the unstitched cloth', highly regarded for its drapers rather than pattern-cutters and designers. But all that has changed in recent years as the country absorbed Western influences and reinvented its fashion industry with an eye to the modern woman.
Last week, India's best and brightest lights in design showcased their latest creations from couture bridal wear to edgy separates at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011, which ended on Sunday. Glitz, glamour, Bollywood starlets, and live music and dance performances were all part of the fun at the six-day event, which is held twice yearly in Mumbai.
While the most recent event welcomed a roster of India's most celebrated designers, including JJ Valaya, Rohit Bal, Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi Muhkerjee and Wendell Rodricks, it was the country's emerging talent that really shone.
'In the past few years we've seen a transition as younger designers have gone to study abroad,' says Bandana Tewari, fashion features director at Vogue India. 'Before that, Western wear was very awkward and featured heavy embroideries - now it's about shape, layers, wearable clothes and cool concepts.'
This was most evident at the Gennext show, which kicked off the week and featured eight young designers tapped to be the next big things. Canadian duo Theresa and Roger created a unisex collection which played on proportions with an unstructured silhouette and an energetic street vibe. It was about bold, vibrant colour as native American and African batik prints decorated wrap blouses, fringed blankets and knee-length shorts.
Also going for something cool and casual was menswear brand Ex-pression-ist, where designer Mohammed Javed Khan sent out loose layers of long sweater coats, pullovers and military shirts belted at the waist and worn with turn-up trousers. Other highlights included Vivienne Westwood alum Farah Sanjana with her all-white collection of origami-inspired and architectural shapes that were a cool mix of feminine and futuristic.
