Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai Tel: 2584 7722 Open: Monday-Saturday, 6-10.30pm Cuisine: American Price: HK$500 to HK$1,000, depending on the cut of steak ordered, before the drinks and service charge. Ambience: replacing JJ's and the Thai & Grill, the Grand Hyatt's 110-seat steakhouse pairs art deco and other vintage elements with dark woods and leather. The effect is a masculine elegance tempered with classic rock tunes from the past four decades. Booths for two diners line the main area around the triangular salad and oyster bar, while two semi-private areas offer tables for larger groups. Pros: simplicity and quality are the name of the game in terms of menu choice and service. Classic appetisers include seafood on ice, oysters on the half shell, crab cakes and steak tartare with grilled sourdough bread. Beef, in various cuts, includes Nebraska prime beef, Canadian Heritage Angus, and Japanese; other meat and fish items include Australian lamb, Ib?rico ham, Dutch veal and Atlantic sea bass. Cons: the restaurant limits reservations to two seating times per night - 6pm and 8.45pm. Recommended dishes: my guest chose the salad bar (HK$150 for unlimited trips), with a choice of about eight types of crisp fresh greens, eight types of composed salads - of which the roasted beetroot with a caramelised citrus dressing was particularly delicious - as well as sliced Ib?rico ham and smoked salmon. My baked oysters Rockefeller (HK$240 for six) were warm and juicy, and complemented by a fragrant topping of chopped spinach, butter and Pernod. Both the 20-ounce (567-gram) bone-in Canadian Angus strip steak (HK$560) and the baked whole sea bass (HK$290) were simply presented and impressively hefty; sauces and side dishes are ordered and served separately. Besides our sauce pick of horseradish cream and red wine jus, there was a choice of eight mustards. The steak was perfectly seasoned and charred on the outside, and evenly red on the inside. The grass-fed beef was firm and lean. Our dessert of dark rum baba (HK$120) came as eight small, moist and spongy baba cakes that were flamb?ed tableside. The dessert was not overly sweet or syrupy; the light-as-air Chantilly cream added smoothness to each bite. What else? Due to the restaurant's popularity, bookings need to be made at at least a month in advance.