With renewed appreciation for keeping it local, the Brooklyn Fare is a modern-day version of the grocer - with a tasting menu. The Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare ( www.brooklynfare.com/ ) is part of the grocery store and offers a new way of thinking about eating and food shopping. Brooklyn Fare is a convenience store with the old-world appeal of a 'mom 'n' pop' grocer. The owner, Moe Issa, prides himself on the fact that he sells extraordinary ingredients. He sees his vision as a commitment to his district, his Brooklyn. Thus it makes sense that Chef's Table next door has the same values. Nighttime exclusive, Chef's Table is the only two Michelin-star restaurant in Brooklyn and the chef celebrates its uniqueness with the prix fixe dinner comprising 20 small-plate courses. Chef Cesar Ramirez combines Japanese and French disciplines - a tasty mix of technique and presentation. An undressed steel table in the kitchen and some personal attention from the chef play a sterling role in the feeling of belonging to a neighbourhood book club or card-game group. Ramirez believes in small servings of top fare. The menu is simple and lists each course of food with a simple ingredient: bass, asparagus, pork. Just the simplicity a new decade desires. Authentic Japanese food in a natural setting is rare in New York but one place, En ( www.enjb.com ), dishes it up beautifully. The setting evocative of an orthodox Japanese emporium with natural features and hand-worked ceramics across the bar. Every first Thursday of the month, the Japanese masterpiece En serves meals in the same way the staff of the restaurant would enjoy after an engrossed shift. The belief that nothing should be wasted is part of this magical restaurant - cooks create wonders with fish heads, bones and vegetable peels. The dishes change monthly and it's a new way of looking at a chef's table. The highly experiential Japanese brasserie En in the West Village of Manhattan is known for its modernization of izakaya, a style of eating small plates of seasonal foods. The modest joy of the restaurant is the philosophy of respecting the ingredients and their natural flavors, cooking with true consciousness and not over complicating the fare. The usual extensive menu includes fresh tofu (prepared every half hour), live miso soups, black cod and do-it-yourself meat-stone cooking. The sake sommelier adds to the attraction as he presents artisanal sake and shochu to amplify the simple flavours. Chef Hiroki Abe thrills and past dinners have included sake marinated tuna collar, dainty sea bream-head soup and sashimi ends over vinegar rice. Included in this tasting menu are all the beer you can drink and a peek into a latter-day New York version of foregone Japan.