Saint-Germain

1A Wong Nai Chung Road, Happy Valley. Tel: 2836 6131

The vibe: European sophistication has replaced the English theme pub atmosphere of The Stables, which formerly occupied this Happy Valley premises. Open-fronted, with wrought-iron railings, a long marble bar and green pastel shades, Saint-Germain is a chic yet homely brasserie, with a cosy, booth-filled main backroom dining area. It's perfect for a quiet drink or a fine yet relaxed dinner. It's busy every night (except Mondays when it's closed) and the French chatter around the bar gives it a genuine Parisian feel. The background jazzy music and dimmed lighting create a true hideaway in the suburbs.

The drinks: the immediate entrance has a wine-bar ambience. There are four reds and whites available by the glass - all French of course - as well as a rose, prosecco and champagne. An expanded selection would be welcome but the range is sufficient and reasonably priced. The Moulin de Grassic sauvignon blanc (HK$55), Macon Villages 'Le Chamville' (HK$80) and Saint Andre deFiguiere ros? (all 2009 vintage) were eminently drinkable. There's also beer on tap and the usual range of liquors and spirits. There's no cocktail list but the barman whipped up a fruity vodka cocktail (HK$70) and martini (HK$80) on request. It's hard to drink without being tempted by the French snacks, such as escargot or croque monsieur, or even to order from the main menu chalked on the board. Of the desserts, the raspberry gratin (HK$98) is to die for, while the lemon grass and ginger brulee is smooth and aromatic.

The verdict: perfect for couples or a quiet night with friends away from the hustle and bustle of town.