16/F-17/F L'Hart, 487-489 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay Tel: 8203 0288 Open: 11am-3pm, 6pm-11pm Cuisine: Italian Price: about HK$350 without drinks and the service charge. Ambience: the clean and simple d?cor has changed little from the space's previous incarnation as the short-lived Tubino, which also served Italian. The two floors that make up the restaurant are joined by a staircase near the entrance. The snug downstairs area seats about 16 at small tables, and was more than half full on a Tuesday night; the more spacious upstairs area had three tables occupied, including ours. Pros: from the looks of it, the downstairs space is popular for tete-a-tetes, given its warm lighting and intimate nooks. There is also a circular semi-private room for parties of six to eight, which looked rather nice through the gauzy curtain. Cons: the Otto menu has kept a similar focus on popular Italian dishes as Tubino but, sadly, the cooking hasn't improved. The tomato sauce in my guest's porcini and scampi linguine (HK$158) was too sugary, and the pasta was overcooked to softness. The mixture of fresh shiitake with rehydrated porcini was odd - although tasty enough - but the four pieces of shell-on scampi were dry and flavourless. My sundried tomato and anchovy pizza (HK$118) made for a nice flavour combination of tart and sweet with a fragrant hit of chopped fresh oregano; too bad the crust was not crusty around the edges, and was dense and chewy in the centre. The sharpness of the liqueur in the tiramisu (HK$68) overpowered the coffee flavour and the sponge layers were dry and tasteless. Recommended dishes: aside from my guest's parma ham and melon appetiser (HK$128) - which would be pretty difficult to bungle - my tuna tartare (HK$108) was quite enjoyable. The portion of fresh, chopped and lightly dressed tuna, topped with crunchy greens, was satisfying; the drizzle of creamy vinaigrette and sprinkle of capers made for moist bites of fish with a tangy finish. What else? The motorised sliding bathroom door, of which we had a clear view from our table, was a source of amusement for me and my guest. Diners would be stumped by the lack of handles on the door and look around blankly; wait staff would rush to help them open it by pressing a small button on the side wall, then enter the bathroom with the guest to instruct further on closing the door and turning on the 'occupied' sign.