Uncorked
James Halliday is an extraordinary blend of a man: a witty raconteur and a prolific writer, with one of the world's most well-regarded palates, especially when it comes to wine from Australia and New Zealand. While in Hong Kong recently, with an array of top Australian wine producers, Halliday filled room after room with journalists, wine enthusiasts and trade professionals eager to soak up his insights.
The author of more than 60 books - including the authoritative Australian Wine Companion - Halliday challenged Hong Kong wine lovers to reconsider their long-held assumptions, most notably the 'misguided belief' that 'French wine is superior over all others regardless of price, region and style'.
Halliday also refutes the theory that red wine is superior to white, and that the former is suitable for all occasions and all Chinese cuisines.
'This belief is, quite simply, wrong,' he said, as we tucked into a selection of China Club favourites, perfectly matched with the wines below.
O'Leary Walker Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc 2010
Incredibly vibrant, zingy and tangy, with intense grapefruit and the sharp, refreshing twist of grape- fruit pith; has an excellent finish.
Available for HK$225 at Rare & Fine Wines (tel: 2522 9797)
Mountadam Eden Valley riesling 2010
Tangy grapefruit, citrusy, textured, minerally and slatey on the palate.
Available for HK$128 at Rare & Fine Wines
McHenry Hohnen Rocky Road Vineyard chardonnay 2010, Margaret River
Lovely chardonnay fruit with yellow apples and ripe pear flavours, well-balanced alcohol delivering plenty of fruit, but still light on its feet. Gentle clove and spice oak-derived accents and extended length. Aged in used barrels from Burgundy.
Available for HK$258 at Rare & Fine Wines
By Farr Farrside pinot noir 2009
High intensity and focused fruit, dusty notes with warm entry and gentle, silky palate. Quiet spice. Tart berries, black raspberry; perfumed and very pretty, but somehow weighty - the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Cranberry tartness adds to its incredibly lengthy finish.
Available for HK$495 at Rare & Fine Wines
Tyrrell's Vat 9 Hunter shiraz 2009
Fruity, boisterous bramble berries and gentle plummy notes. 'Derived from a classic vintage,' Halliday said, adding, 'As long as you don't panic in the Hunter, you can make excellent wine.'
Available for HK$435 at Rare & Fine Wines
Wolf Blass Black Label cabernet sauvignon-shiraz-malbec 2006
Elegant, lovely and plush fruit with a coconut back palate. Featuring a bold structure with quiet layering of blackberry fruit, this beautiful and approachable wine from a cool vintage has terrific length. Never would I have imagined pairing Black Label with goose liver and shrimp wontons, but the dish's meaty broth and ham elements spoke to this wine.
Available for HK$998 at Rare & Fine Wines
Saltram No1 Shiraz 2006, Barossa Valley (pictured) Restrained nose but powerful robust palate with dense, plentiful fruit and fine powdery tannins. Blackberry, mulberry and subtle oak matched the braised pork belly's five-spice seasoning.
Available for HK$489 at Rare & Fine Wines
