With a change in seasons to cooler weather, it is time to wrap up with equally cool looks straight from the catwalk. Falling temperatures mean the return of layers, whether it's a chunky knit over a floaty dress or structured blazer over jeans and a T-shirt. Many designers went one step further this season, topping off their looks with ponchos and capes. These versatile pieces are easy to wear. Whether they are oversized, slim-fit or seamless pull-over styles, they make for a stylish alternative to jumpers and cardigans. This autumn-winter, Kookai has taken inspiration from Catherine Deneuve in the French film Belle de Jour. This feminine look includes short A-line dresses and buttoned skirts that accentuate the figure. Timeless and classic silhouettes come in an elegant yet understated palette of camel, beige, black and navy, accented with rich shades of vintage green and burgundy. References to haute couture can be seen in the modernised YSL-style tuxedos that are worn with floppy bow-ruffled blouses. Couture fabrics, such as brocade, crushed velvet, lace and leather, add a refined touch, while knits crafted from angora, sequins and lurex balance out the look. Kookai also embraces the bohemian look with a return to nature in a folk-inspired palette of brown, russet and khaki, mixed with muted colours of plum and green. A romantic feel is evident in the heavy gauge sweaters paired with long skirts and flowing dresses decorated with mismatched floral prints and jacquard. Blouses feature feminine detailing including lace, horizontal tucks and intricate embroidery. Liu Jo has also reinterpreted YSL's Le Smoking tuxedos with technical fabrics and satin in structured or softer loose versions. Simple lines are important to the Liu Jo silhouette, with elegant pea jackets, cape-style sweaters and double jersey vests. Lightweight fabrics such as tulle, georgette and chiffon create an ethereal look. Boho is still a strong theme, characterised by flowing volumes with a mix of colours, patterns and lengths. Ted Baker has embraced femininity with delicate lace, ruffle and pleat details on separates, juxtaposed with heavier leather and wool on outerwear and knits. The look highlights the importance of texture and layering this season. For men, Ted Baker opted for the rugged look with tweed and corduroy topped off with cable-knit jumpers and quilted outerwear. Diesel's look revolves around draped indigo dresses, graphic printed T-shirts, mesh and canvas. Indigo yarn with a marble wash transforms jersey dresses into vintage looks, while the 'sweat dress' is treated with a thick layer of dyes that have been blotched on the reverse side to make each garment unique. The palette ranges from indigo, grey and black to military green and burgundy. Of course, no look is complete without jeans. Diesel's new Divinely Stretch five-pocket jeans combine the perfect fit with the softest touch. At Zadig & Voltaire, leather sets the tone for the women's collection. It is seen throughout the line with blazers, parkas, coats, leggings, biker trousers, shirts and even knits. Natural blue jeans or oiled trousers in black, plum or khaki are topped with a layering of knits and T-shirts. The softness of cashmere is seen with frayed knits, unstructured lines and raw edges. For cold winter days, the alpaca wool gilet, poncho or reversible woolskin jacket fit the bill. Red is the standout in Zadig & Voltaire's men's collection. The colour is painted on jumper sleeves, on the necks of coats, in the insides of jackets and on the edging of trousers. Cashmere is teamed with black or natural jeans. Knits feature stripes or two-colour collars.
