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Sorriso Italian Cuisine

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Susan Jung

29/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: 2328 9123
Open: noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm
Cuisine: Italian

Price: about HK$375 for a two-course meal, without drinks and the service charge.

Ambience: as with the other restaurants on the higher floors of iSquare, the attraction is the view of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong Island. The lights in the restaurant were dim enough so we could see outside the windows but still read the menu.

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Pros: the food. Even the bread, served with an intense basil pesto, was good.

Cons: service was friendly enough, but we were seated in an awkward spot next to a large pillar, which made it difficult to wave down a waiter. When we asked for more of the delicious, paper-thin carta di musica crispbread, we didn't receive any. We didn't try any of the desserts because the list sounded so dull.

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Recommended dishes: I changed my mind at the last minute and decided to try the burrata with tomato sherbet (HK$158) as my starter, rather than the fish soup, and I'm glad I did. It was one of the best burrata I've tasted in Hong Kong - a thin 'skin' of mozzarella with a soft oozing interior. The tomato sherbet was a delicious, inspired touch, tasting more of tomato than the fresh raw fruit itself. My guest's Margherita pizza with spicy Italian salame (HK$168) had a Roman-style crust that was almost too thin and cracker-like, but the tomato sauce and cheese were good and in just the right proportion; too many restaurants overload the toppings. My main course, linguine with fresh lobster and spicy cherry tomato jus (HK$238), showcased sweet lobster chunks and well-sauced al dente pasta. Goose liver and porcini ravioli (HK$178) had tender wrappers, a rich livery sauce and fresh mushrooms.

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