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Going coastal

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In the last few years accolades have rained down on the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park like confetti, with this glorious Welsh peninsula being voted into in the 'top three' of everything from the 'World's Best Coastline' to 'World's Best Long Distance Trail' by the likes of National Geographic magazine - yet even in Britain it is a relatively unappreciated region.

This may be because of Wales' not altogether accurate reputation for being a land of rain and wind - both are to be found, but in lesser amounts than you would expect. In fact, this is one of the warmest and sunniest corners of Britain thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream, which flows right past the region's sensational array of sea cliffs, beaches, coves and estuaries, and with it brings dolphins, whales, giant leatherback turtles and sunfish to the surrounding seas.

However, the fact that Pembrokeshire is special is not breaking news as far as the locals are concerned. As long ago as the 12th century the book of Welsh folk tales known as The Mabinogion used the phrase 'gwlad hud a lledrith' to describe the region, which translates as the evocative 'land of mystery and enchantment'.

In summer you can walk sections of the 299-kilometre Pembrokeshire Coast Path, ablaze with colourful wildflowers. Along the way, you can take in everything from Iron Age standing stones to medieval castles and cosy pubs. And if you have two weeks to spare you could even tramp its whole length - although be warned that in doing so you'll have climbed the equivalent of an ascent of Everest, so undulating is the coastline.

The tiny city of St David's makes a fine base for exploring the area, especially if you book a room at the Warpool Court Hotel, which sits atop low cliffs just outside town, has the coastal path snaking right past its lawns and boasts one of the finest sea views in the world.

Be warned, however, that this is not a city where glitz, nightlife and bustling streets are part of the scene. With a permanent population of just 2,500, St David's is Britain's smallest city and at best has the buzz of a small market town. It was named a city by royal decree in 1995, and 1,500 years before was the birthplace of Wales' patron saint, after which it is named.

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