It has been 20 years since Andrew Rosen, president and founder of US label Theory last visited Hong Kong, and he recalls Victoria Harbour being filled with traditional Chinese junks.
He is on a mission to develop the business of Theory and Helmut Lang with partners such as Lane Crawford, and also expand Theory in the mainland, which he plans to visit for the first time.
Rosen has had a busy year: in June he led a team of investors to buy luxury label Proenza Schouler. And since luring Olivier Theyskens' high fashion credentials to Theory last year, the no-nonsense New Yorker has been on a roll.
As a third generation industry insider, Rosen is spearheading the contemporary market in the United States, with labels such as Helmut Lang, Rag & Bone, Alice + Olivia, Gryphon and lingerie label Kiki de Montparnasse under his wing. And as luxury ready-to-wear becomes more expensive and out of reach of consumers, Rosen hopes to win fans by developing urban, good quality, stylish separates.
'Americans are way ahead [on the contemporary trend],' says Rosen, in his slight New York drawl. 'Every design centre is a product of the lifestyle there and the American lifestyle is about the contemporary marketplace. It's about the basics of your wardrobe that aren't precious.'
Rosen is all for championing American fashion, as his family has done for generations, since his grandfather started Puritan fashions in 1910. 'It's an exciting time for American fashion now. Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim and Rag & Bone - all those guys have a great perspective.'