3/F Zhongda Building 38-40 Haiphong Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2377 4567 Open: noon-3.30pm, 6-11pm Cuisine: Sichuan and Shanghainese Price: about HK$250 without drinks and the service charge Ambience: Chuan Shang Long's interior is reminiscent of cosy teahouses in Taiwan. The booths by the large windows are the best, giving views of Haiphong Road and Kowloon Park. Pros: the menu is quite extensive, and choices range from the usual spicy Sichuan dishes such as 'saliva' chicken and fish fillet in spicy oil, to more imaginative fare. There's also some Shanghainese influence. Cons: it's a 'young' restaurant, manned by waiters who look barely out of their teens and who seem a little bemused. I was told they didn't have bottled mineral water, although they did. The menu is only in Chinese, but there are enough photos in it to select a meal. We picked the lotus seeds wrapped in braised pork (HK$128) because it looked interesting, but were disappointed with the dry, coarse pork. Recommended dishes: the traditional fish fillet in spicy oil (HK$168) packed quite a kick. The fish was tender, although a bit bony, and the hot oil carried a strong peppery flavour that was stimulating. But the stars of the night were the crab with glutinous rice (HK$268 for a 12-ounce crab) and the Chuan Shang Long chicken pot (HK$168 for half a chicken). Although we initially thought that the glutinous rice wasn't sticky enough, we were quickly silenced by the taste: the full savoury flavours of the crab were strongly infused into the rice. The chicken pot is something that calls for a return visit. Simmered for several hours in a sauce containing 10 different kinds of herbs and spices, the chicken meat remained tender, and there was just enough spice to add a pleasant jolt without being overpowering. Vegetables with salted meat (HK$68) and the desserts of glutinous balls in sweet ginger soup (HK$24) and the osmanthus jelly (HK$20) were not spectacular, but worked well to round off a good meal. What else? The restaurant seats about 80 people and also serves hotpot.