China's first international hotel, the elegant Astor, built in 1863, is the perfect spot to begin a heritage-themed food tour of the northern city of Tianjin.
The hotel was the place to wine and dine when Tianjin was a treaty port, controlled by European powers. The 152-room property recently has been given a makeover by the giant Starwood hotel group, and many of its original features restored and refurbished - including the grand sweeping staircase, the Victorian Lounge and O'Hara's pub. It's also been renamed The Astor Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel (33 Taier Zhuang Road, tel: +86 22 2331 1688). In the spirit of recreating the cuisine of that earlier era, chef David Woodford has studied 12-course menus from the past, selecting dishes that might still appeal to modern diners. The steakhouse now has dishes such as fillet of sole Veronique, roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, Russian borscht, chicken Kiev, prawn cocktail with Marie Rose sauce, English trifle and strawberries Romanoff.
That deeply traditional style of food is proving to be surprisingly popular with locals, or at least the nouveau riche and expense account cadres who can afford five-star prices.
The Astor is in a plum spot on the banks of the main Hai River that dissects the city and within walking distance of many restaurants and bars. Close by is a branch of the cheap and cheerful Goubuli restaurant chain (77 Shandong Road; tel: +86 22 2730 2540/27303277), known for its baozi (steamed buns), which are offered with scores of different fillings and are perfect for lunch.
In the evening, head to Little Italy, farther up the river, where a city block has Neapolitan-style buildings dating back to the start of the 20th century and which, in more recent times, were converted into bars and restaurants.
Work up an appetite with a stroll along the river bank, which is always bustling. In summer, groups of swimmers meet here to take the plunge together; fishermen cast their rods year round, inhibited only by the ice of mid-winter, while tai chi practitioners go through their slow, graceful motions in all seasons.