34 Graham Street, Central Tel: 2854 1800 Open: Monday-Saturday noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Cuisine: Japanese Price: about HK$300, without drinks and the service charge. Ambience: busy and cramped, with seats for about 25, including at the small sushi bar. It's a friendly place with a neighbourhood feel. Pros: when ordering, I really should have taken a clue from the name of the restaurant - the raw fish dishes were very good. Other diners were smart enough to order the set dinner of sashimi over Japanese rice (HK$198), and we'll try it the next time we come. We saw it at the next table and it was a glistening, varied and generously portioned selection of fresh seafood, and not just the cheapest types, either: we noticed uni, amaebi, hamachi and maguro, among others. Cons: tables are very close together, so you'll find yourself plucking napkins from the holder on your neighbours' table, while they borrow soy sauce from yours. The grilled salted yellow fish gills (HK$128) were too meaty and overcooked, so the fish was dry. We wanted the spicy cod roe chicken wings (HK$48) but were served dull, regular grilled chicken wings (HK$38). Recommended dishes: chub mackerel sashimi (HK$105) - three thick, substantial pieces - were oily, rich and delicious. Uni sushi (HK$88) was piled high with whole pieces of the sea urchin roe, which were wonderfully briny tasting. Soft bone dumplings (HK$40) were unusual but enjoyable, with the chicken cartilage - cooked so it still had some crunch - wrapped in a thin, tender skin. We were intrigued by the fried squid lips (HK$48), mainly because we're ignorant of squid anatomy and didn't even know that squid had lips. Piled high in a bowl, the pieces had been dipped in a light batter before being fried; they'd make a great bar snack. Soft-shell crab maki (HK$70) featured an inside-out roll of nori and crab wrapped in tender rice and ripe avocado, with a sprinkling of tobiko eggs for crunch. What else? Reserve a table if you want to eat here; some people were turned away.