2 Shin Hing Street, Central
Tel: 2581 1282
Open: 6pm-11.30pm
Cuisine: Japanese
Price: about HK$400 without drinks and the service charge
Ambience: shambolic, which may have had something to do with the boisterous table of revellers beside us or the eccentric mixture of music or the eclectic decor. Displayed on the open-kitchen counter is the creature that lends its name to this establishment: the akabeko (red cow), which is a mascot of Aizu in Fukushima prefecture.
Pros: the waiters were efficient, my tea cup was never empty, and our friendly host was keen to chat after the restaurant had quietened later in the evening.
Cons: the noise and uneven lighting can be jarring if you're trying to have a laid-back evening. The goya champuru (HK$65) - a lacklustre dish of Okinawan-style stir-fried bitter melon, tofu and egg - was disappointing, not least because pork (not mentioned in the menu) made a surprise appearance; 'champuru' is derived from the Malay 'campur', meaning 'mix', which perhaps explains the sloppy home-cooked appearance of the dish. The asari chijimi (HK$75), a thin Korean pancake with asari clams, lacked moisture and flavour, and had us reaching for the soy sauce.
Recommended dishes: the restaurant's signature dishes are beef-orientated, which explains the cow on the front of the menu with different cuts mapped on its body. We tried the wagyu short rib (HK$65 a skewer), hanging tender (HK$65), skirt (HK$65) and tri tip (HK$65), which is the inner thigh of the animal and the meat we most enjoyed, although all of the chunky-cut portions were expertly seasoned, succulent and delicious with wasabi and yuzu kosho (citrus-flavoured pepper). My guest, however, felt the wagyu sausage (HK$65) was inadequately spiced compared with the other beef offerings. Under 'Chicken and Others ...', the shishitou peppers (HK$25) and shiitake mushrooms (HK$25), both grilled, juicy and smoky-savoury, were tasty side dishes to pick at between dishes or while enjoying drinks. Also worth ordering is the classic yakitori chicken leg with leek (HK$40).