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Chinese pasta that's fit to eat

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OF all the varieties of noodles in Hong Kong ranging from the yellow gan suey, typical of wonton noodles, to the egg noodles, the fresh, simple, white Shanghai or fresh-water noodles, sold either angel-hair thin or fettucine-like in thickness, are the healthiest and cleanest tasting.

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The strong flavour of the gan suey mein must be an acquired taste; it can dominate any sauce with which it is mixed. Egg noodles are great, and the small amount of cholesterol they contain is really negligible but the texture and purity of the fresh-water noodle made only of flour and water lends itself to any taste.

Noodle dishes served in restaurants are usually swimming in oil,deep-fried or lathered with hidden fats (and calories) emulsified into the sauce. This problem is easily remedied in the home by using oil sparingly as shown in the following noodle recipes. A basic cooking strategy for noodles is to drop them loosely into a generous amount of boiling water, stirring them from the bottom. They should never be over-cooked, so wait until everything else is ready first and always test them by sampling a strand while cooking. It is not necessary to rinse them if you use lots of water for cooking and immediately sauce them.

Spicy Lo Mein You need 6 oz (148 g) minced chicken breast 1 tsp (5 ml) dark soy sauce half tsp (2.5 ml) sugar 1 tsp (5 ml) rice wine or dry sherry half tsp olive oil 3 slices ginger (large, generous slices) 3 cloves garlic, slightly crushed half head Chinese celery cabbage, coarsely chopped 2 cups (480 ml) clarified chicken stock 1 tsp (5 ml) chili-garlic sauce (Lee Kum Kee) 3 tblsp (45 ml) light soy or Maggi sauce 4 tblsp (45 ml) cornstarch, dissolved in 4 tblsp chicken stock 2 balls fresh fresh-water noodles Method Bring 12 cups of water to a boil, cover, lower heat and reserve for later use.

Marinate minced chicken with dark soy, sugar, and sherry.

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Heat oil in non-stick pan; add ginger and garlic, then add marinated chicken and stir-fry until colour changes.

Add chopped celery cabbage, toss and stir-fry a few minutes, then add chicken stock, chili-garlic sauce, and light soy or Maggi sauce. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook an additional four or five minutes.

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