Turnip puddings
This important Lunar New Year speciality is eaten for its auspicious name, which means 'high' as in 'aim high'. The densely textured dish is often pan-fried in slices and served with chilli sauce. Janice Leung has a bite
Yan Toh Heen Kagoshima Sakurajima Daikon Pudding
A dainty pudding packaged in an elegant matte gold box, along with a small tub of XO sauce. The star attraction is the daikon from Kagoshima in southern Japan. In addition to shreds of turnip, translucent diced pieces in the pudding add sweetness and there are just enough dried scallops and preserved sausage for a balanced flavour. Cut it into thick slices for frying so a golden-brown crust forms on the outside.
HK$238 Yan Toh Heen, InterContinental HK, 18 Salisbury Rd
Pat Chun Radish Cake
With new batches steamed daily, these puddings benefit from overnight refrigeration so they hold their shape when cut. They have an incredibly creamy texture and can either be fried quickly in thin slices or in thicker pieces for those who enjoy the creaminess. The loose strands of turnip mean it tends to burn fairly easily, but use medium to low heat and you'll achieve a crispy, golden exterior. The diced meats in the pudding add salty, fatty bursts of flavour - a sign of quality.
HK$155, Pat Chun, 136A Fa Yuen St, Mong Kok
Da Shijie Radish Cake
Made with daikon, or Japanese turnip, which has been julienned in these cakes. The thin strips are sturdy enough, but the mixture around them is not and tends to fall apart, especially at the recommended thickness of about 1cm. Even with a steady hand, 2cm was the thinnest I could manage. The other ingredients, such as dried shrimps, conpoy (dried scallops) and Chinese ham, have been added liberally and create great umami, but the soggy texture lets it down.
HK$218, Da Shijie stands in City'super, citywide
Maxim's Conpoy Turnip Pudding
Maxim's Lunar New Year cakes are one of the most popular choices in Hong Kong and it's easy to see why. They may not be the most luxurious as there isn't much meat, but the flavours are rich thanks to the use of conpoy and chicken soup. It is slightly firm, which makes it easy to pan-fry. Usually, firmness means too much flour has been used, but surprisingly the starchiness of this pudding is acceptable. It can be sliced thinly and fried quickly at medium heat.
HK$95, Maxim's cake shops and restaurants, citywide
Xi Yan Supreme Radish Cake
What began as a private kitchen has spawned several restaurants and a food brand. But the quality of this pudding suggests Xi Yan might be spreading itself too thin. The hard-hitting umami of dried shrimp is pleasant, but the cake is so dense I was worried that if I threw it at someone they could be badly injured. Its extreme starchiness is so distracting that it's difficult to notice any of the other ingredients, such as Chinese sausage, and also makes it burn very easily in the pan.
HK$88, Xi Yan, 3/F, 83 Wan Chai Rd, Wan Chai, Xi Yan outlets and Jusco
