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Mensa Organica

G/F, Bright Star Mansion, 95-97 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay Tel: 3489 8266 Open: 11.30am-10.30pm Cuisine: Western with some Asian accents

Price: about HK$370 without drinks and the service charge.

Ambience: the 16-seat restaurant has the feel of a modern cafe, with small square tables and designer acrylic chairs. But the dim spotlighting is more appropriate for a bar. Packaged organic fruits and vegetables for sale are displayed in baskets near the entrance. We were seated in the darkest corner near the kitchen entrance, next to a large flat screen showing a full orchestra performance - with the sound off.

Pros: the menu states that all vegetables and fruits come from a dedicated organic farm on the mainland and that the cuisine aims to be healthy, light and tasty. Vegetable ingredients are listed first, even for meat and seafood mains. With meat and seafood ingredients, we were told that they were imported, and organic where possible.

Cons: the first day on the job is always a trial, but that's no excuse for management to throw a green waitress out onto the floor without a basic menu briefing. When the first of our appetisers arrived, it was a lowball glass filled with unidentifiable chunks coated in mayonnaise. We inquired what it was, and our waitress confessed that she had no idea. The head waiter revealed it to be the trio fish tartare (HK$128), which fell way below our expectations. There was no way to tell whether the fish was fresh, much less what three kinds of fish were used, under the thick mayonnaise. The restaurant seems to have a few other kinks to work out - at the time we dined, they had neither a proper dessert menu (there was one 'daily dessert' on offer), or a wine list (we were given a choice of house red or white).

Recommended dishes: we fared better with our second appetiser - a yam noodle and crab meat salad (HK$128), which featured springy, grey-brown yam noodles in a very light chilli-garlic vinaigrette and topped generously with snow crab meat. We also enjoyed our main of smoked pork belly with a lemon cream risotto (HK$238). It wasn't particularly healthy but it was certainly tasty. The pork pieces were marinated in a mixture of blueberry, honey and whisky and roasted to a caramelised crispness that suited the al dente risotto.

What else? Mensa Organica offers a two-course dinner set for HK$198. It's HK$258 for three courses, dessert not included. The name is Latin for 'organic table'.

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