226 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan Tel: 2547 8008 Open: daily noon-10.30pm (Sunday until 4pm). Closed Mondays Cuisine: international
Price: about HK$300 without drinks. No service charge, so they encourage tipping according to the experience.
Ambience: The French-windowed ground floor has an open view of Hollywood Road Park, and the upstairs has a decidedly vintage feel with comfy, mismatched furniture and pretty blooms on each table.
Pros: there's no break in service between lunch and dinner, and the menu remains the same, so if you want to avoid the crowds, come for a leisurely late lunch or afternoon tea, which turns into an early dinner - which is what my guest and I did. Service was unrushed and attentive. The menu is eclectic, made up of personal favourites of the chef-owners, which means everything from 'Balinese' tacos and chile con carne to coq au vin to house-made green curry with rice.
Cons: those who have experienced cheap and delicious Mexican street food might baulk at the HK$30 price tag for one taco that can be finished in two good bites. The only other minor complaint concerned the mushy and bland coconut rice that came with the sumac-crusted salmon main course.
Recommended dishes: the salmon (HK$150) was simply presented, with a good-sized piece of fish over a bed of fresh pak choi. The fish was perfectly seared - with a crispy spice crust and a juicy, vivid coral centre; the vegetables had a well-seasoned crunch and a natural sweetness. Of the four types of tacos - carnitas (pork), Balinese fish, hibiscus and black bean, and chicken and mole (HK$30 each) - we enjoyed the soft, shredded pork with its slow, subtle hum of heat, and the more colourful fish taco with a zingy coriander and kaffir lime dressing. The pumpkin and foie gras terrine (HK$120) came in a cute latch-top glass jar, and was served with thin, fresh crostini. The sweetness of the roasted pumpkin and the buttery foie gras made for an unctuous spread, and the sprinkle of sea salt that we requested made each bite extra enjoyable.