How did you become a chef? 'I was born and raised in Hiroshima, Japan. I had two dreams when I was a kid: be a chef or be a baseball player. During high school a shoulder injury ended my baseball dream. At 18, I took an apprenticeship to learn to make sushi and sashimi at a local restaurant. I endured five years of long hours and incredibly busy work. I only had two days off each month and never any festive holidays. I often smelled like fish, and I had no life. At 24, I decided that opening a kissaten - a Japanese-style coffee shop - would be more profitable and would give me an easier life. My first kissaten was in Hiroshima, serving Japanese-fusion Western food such as spaghetti, curry rice and set lunches. I did that for five years before deciding to travel and see the world.'
What's it like to be an Iron Chef? 'The producers of television show The Iron Chef came to me in 1994. At first I said I couldn't do it, but after getting advice from a chef friend, I accepted the offer. The timing was right. Sushi was gaining popularity in the United States. Then I took the show to America, creating the spin-off Iron Chef America.
'There are infinite pressures in keeping up with the Iron Chef challenges. It's a lot of work. Sometimes we had to film a few episodes within a tight schedule. The rewarding part was that many kids were following the shows and were inspired to become chefs. But, honestly, I hate doing Iron Chef. I have wanted to quit before. I am getting older and I feel the pressure physically and emotionally. I hate this job, but I am also honoured to have the chance to do it.' Why don't you serve the bold and inventive dishes, such as the 'stained-glass sushi', you created in the Iron Chef challenges at your restaurants? 'In the Iron Chef challenges I could use any ingredient, regardless of the price. However, business is business. I cannot use expensive ingredients in my restaurants all the time. I have to make money and chefs must concern themselves with the overheads, especially expenses for food and labour. In the case of my pop-up restaurant at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel, in Central, however, I am free to incorporate the finest ingredients into my dishes, to give customers a special experience.'
How would you describe your cuisine? 'I have no signature dishes - my cooking style is global. I have restaurants in different US locations and countries - Japan, India and Mexico - and my culinary philosophy is to mix with the locals. The ingredients and cooking methods might not be Japanese. There are no rules to my food - it's all about whatever I feel like cooking. The only rule is there's no rule when it comes to eating my food.' With eight restaurants to run, how do you balance your frantic work schedule with family life? 'More than 1,000 people work for me. I am 57 and it's tough. I have no time. Sometimes I have to cheer myself up. It is hard but I do love my life. Last November, I spent three days at home. This January, I had five days to sleep in my own bed. This is not good for my wife but she understands a husband's work is most important. I got married in 1979 and we celebrated our 32nd anniversary. We don't need to see each other every day. Love to me is like air: you can't see it but you need it to be alive. We use the same wallet and share our money.' What do you like to eat? 'My favourite cuisine is Chinese - I can eat Chinese food every day. It also influences my cooking. My favourite food is congee with fu yu [fermented bean curd]. I also like Chinese preserved mustard greens and vegetables, as well as XO sauce. I like to eat Cantonese and northern Chinese dishes. I am fond of simple food.'