The sesame is the mighty atom of seeds: it's hard to believe something so tiny can be so powerful - in flavour, at least. The seeds, usually divided into white (which are actually off-white) and black varieties, are prized for their nutty, distinctive flavour, which becomes even stronger when the seeds are toasted.
Besides being used whole (often as a garnish), sesame seeds are also pressed into a clear oil and ground to make pastes (such as tahini) and confections (inclu- ding halva).
Sesame seeds are rich in minerals and vitamins and are said to have many health benefits, including antioxidant properties.
To make it easier to toast the seeds, use an inexpensive gadget called a sesame toaster: it's a small pan with a hinged screen that can be locked once the seeds are inside it. Place the pan over a flame and shake it constantly to prevent the seeds from burning. The screen prevents the seeds from flying out as they pop. The seeds are ready when they turn slightly shiny and smell toasted.
Sesame oil can be made from raw or toasted seeds; the latter is darker in colour and has a stronger flavour than the oil made from raw seeds. Sesame oil is usu- ally drizzled on food just before serving, although some Japanese chefs use it for frying tempura. If adding sesame oil to a vinaigrette or dressing, use just a few drops because a little goes a long way.
Sesame brittle is a delicious and easy-to-make confection. Make a caramel by heating granulated sugar with a little water over a low flame until the sugar starts to melt. Stir in fresh lemon juice, then cook it without stirring until the sugar turns pale golden. Swirl the pan occasionally so the sugar caramelises evenly. When the caramel turns medium golden, stir in some sesame seeds then immediately pour this mixture in a very thin sheet on a lightly oiled baking tray. Cool completely before breaking the brittle into pieces.
