The waiting list for his jewellery is so long and the finished creations are so highly prized by their owners that they rarely come to auction. So it is a coup for Christie's to be auctioning a collection of 18 pieces by the reclusive French jeweller Joel Arthur Rosenthal, known as JAR and considered to be one of the most enigmatic jewellers of our time.
These creations are part of a collection of jewellery owned by Lily Safra to be auctioned at Christie's in Geneva next month.
Safra, born in Brazil and wife of the late banker Edmond Safra, is a philanthropist and a lover of spectacular jewellery. She is selling a collection of 70 rare pieces to raise money for 20 charities around the world. The sale is expected to raise more than US$20 million.
The collection, which will be previewed in Hong Kong on April 27 and 28, will include three rings (a Burmese ruby, diamond and sapphire), each of more than 30 carats, and a beautiful Belle Epoque Cartier diamond and emerald 'eglantines' rose necklace. But it is the JAR jewellery that has connoisseurs really excited.
The Elizabeth Taylor auction last December saw a pair of his multicoloured ball ear clips fetch US$602,500 in fierce bidding. Prior to that, actress Ellen Barkin sold 17 creations by JAR given to her by former husband Ronald Perelman. So this collection of 18 pieces, including a gorgeous ruby camellia brooch made in 2003 and estimated to fetch US$1.2 to US$1.5 million, is very special and the fruit of a creative relationship that began in 1981.
'He is an artist and can just look at a client and know how to enhance her,' says Angela Berden, one of the auctioneer's jewellery specialists.