Rowena Carr-Allinson

In city where he first came to art world's attention 27 years ago, Xiamen-born Huang will fill the nave of the Grand Palais - a 45-metre-high, 13,500 square metre space under one of the city's most famous glass roofs - writes Rowena Carr-Allinson 

Art deco gem, for 60 years the place to be seen but which then became an artists' squat, has been restored with some modern touches.

After Fox News declared parts of the French capital 'no-go zones' for non-Muslims, Rowena Carr-Allinson ventures into the biggest one and finds hipsters, trendy restaurants, vibrant markets and creeping gentrification.