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China-Australia relations
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China-Australia relations: tax on Aussie wine gives Rothschild family’s estate the chance of a lifetime to supplant Australia’s wine in tempting Chinese palates

  • A 370-year-old vineyard of the legendary Chateau Mouton Rothschild aims to bring some 11,000 more bottles of wine to China, a quarter of its production from current 10 per cent
  • China has officially slapped duties up to 218.4 per cent on Australian wines

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An employee placing a bottle of wine next to Australian made wine (R) at a store in Beijing on August 18, 2020. Photo: AFP
Pearl Liu

The family of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, owner of one of the most sought-after great wines of Bordeaux, is allocating a record volume of its entry-level wine to China, as it sees the chance of a lifetime to sell more to the world’s fastest-growing population of wine drinkers.

Domaine de Baronarques, a 370-year-old vineyard owned by the family behind the legendary Chateau Mouton Rothschild, plans to ship about 11,000 bottles – or 25 per cent of annual production – to China, more than doubling its current allocation for the market, said its managing director Augustin Deschamps.

“Customers [in China] are looking for a bigger diversity of wine than before, with more curiosity and a high level of expectations,” Deschamps said in an interview with South China Morning Post from Limoux city in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in southern France, about four hours drive from Bordeaux. “It’s now a very exciting competition, with more space for new quality wines.”

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China consumed 1.78 billion litres of wine in 2019, the fifth-biggest wine market, according to Statista. Consumers in China’s expanding middle class, who developed a palate for wine over the past decade, have turned the world’s second-largest economy into the biggest market for first growth labels, becoming the driving force behind record prices for Mouton, Chateau Latour, Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Hau-Brion and Chateau Margaux at auctions.
The three wines of Domaine de Baronarques (left to right): Grand Vin Rouge, La Capitelle de Baronarques and Grand Vin Blanc. Photo: Handout
The three wines of Domaine de Baronarques (left to right): Grand Vin Rouge, La Capitelle de Baronarques and Grand Vin Blanc. Photo: Handout
The tide turned after President Xi Jinping kicked off a campaign against corruption and ostentatious gift-giving in 2012. Since about 2015, Chinese consumers turned their attention to the premier crus and grand crus of Burgundy, as well as New World vineyards in Australia, South Africa, Chile and the Napa Valley.
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A 2015 free-trade agreement between Beijing and Canberra slashed Chinese taxes on Australian wine, becoming the game changer that helped Australia supplant France as the biggest wine exporter to China by 2019.
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