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Indians tackle meaty issues

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A chef prepares to grill a chicken at a Mumbai restaurant. India’s growing wealth has increased demand for meat, particularly from the newly affluent middle class. Photo: AFP

With German sausages, French duck breasts and homegrown chicken, Francis Menezes is cashing in on the growing appetite for meat among Indians -- even in one of Mumbai’s most strictly vegetarian areas.

In the upmarket neighbourhood of Malabar Hill, numerous shops, restaurants and even some apartment blocks remain meat-free.

But Menezes, co-manager of the Cafe Ridge food store, says he does a brisk trade in “non-veg”, especially with those who have studied abroad.

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“Things like Thanksgiving, which was never celebrated over here in Mumbai, is now being celebrated every year. The new generation are cool with eating anything,” he said.

India’s booming middle-class is driving the demand for meat in a country with a traditionally low intake -- a survey in 2006 showed that 40 per cent of the population were vegetarian.

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Fish and meat have long been part of other Indians’ diets but for many they used to be a rarity, said Arvind Singhal, chairman of the consumer consultancy group Technopak Advisors.

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