New chef at Lily & Bloom gives American comfort food a gourmet twist
Chris Grare, formerly of Café Gray Deluxe, nails the gourmet starters and main courses, but misses mark with generic candy at the end
Lily & Bloom in Central has got a menu makeover, thanks to new executive chef Chris Grare.
If his name sounds familiar, he was previously at Café Gray Deluxe in Pacific Place and The American Club. At Lily & Bloom on Wyndham Street, he’s taking American comfort food up a few notches on the gourmet scale.
Grare’s dishes are very pretty – reminiscent of those to be had at Café Gray Deluxe – and, based on our recent sampling of some of them, pretty tasty too.
Another starter is the lentil-crusted lobster (HK$155), which features a lobster claw and a kind of sandwich with lobster meat and lentils dressed in a celery root puree with curry sauce, topped with a chunk of pomelo. Pairing seafood with earthy legumes was interesting – but it works.
The foie gras terrine (HK$210) has a silky smooth texture, its richness cut by the accompanying wholegrain mustard crème and celery root slaw. Some crackers or crusty bread would have made a good addition to what’s a decadent dish.
As for main courses, the whole-roasted spring chicken (HK$295) is deboned and has a wonderful flavour. Served with smoked cauliflower puree on a bed of Parisian gnocchi with herb pesto, the meat is tender. It’s a hearty country dish with a hint of smokiness.
For dessert, we’d heard about the 12-inch cookie (HK$650 for six to eight guests) that made us think of pizza, but given that there were just three of us, we got the mini version in a small skillet (HK$95). Served soft – Grare says he’d serve cookie dough if he could – the warm cookies topped with melting M&Ms and gummy bears were a bit jarring after so much gourmet fare.
Lily & Bloom, 5/F-6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central. Tel: 2810 6166