Opinion | When Hong Kong loses small stores like Happy Cake Shop, we lose a sliver of our soul

One by one, these little shops are going. Local culture is eroded a little more, as is the social network and a communal lifestyle

The failure to save these small shops, as opposed to historic buildings, will leave us with only a skeleton of cultural heritage – not the soul

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Happy Cake Shop in Wan Chai, which closed in August, was beloved for its cream cones. As long as Hong Kong keeps pouring money in, we will be able to preserve historic buildings and mass-produce cream cones. But this is not the same as preserving heritage, context and that which makes Hong Kong unique. Photo: Dickson Lee

Published: 6:45am, 13 Aug 2022

Early in August, long-time patrons lined up to bid farewell to Happy Cake Shop, a 45-year-old bakery in Wan Chai, and to get some of their favourite deep-fried buns, chicken pies and egg tarts from the shop for the last time. In the city, the mood was less than happy. Across various media outlets, tributes were pouring in for the bakery’s signature nostalgic treat, the cream cone. Nobody expected to see this old-fashioned, cream-filled pastry in this neighbourhood again.

The cream cone’s fade-out is just one small part of a gradual trend. There are other traditional foods, which are a reminder to Hongkongers of their sweet childhood, that are slowly disappearing from one neighbourhood after another: red bean puddings, pluchea indica cakes, and piggy biscuits.

This week, the list of culinary casualties got a little longer when Lin Heung Tea House, one of the city’s oldest dim sum restaurants, announced its decision to shut its doors. After surviving two close calls, the teahouse finally stopped serving its selection of old-time items – including pig’s tripe siu mai – that are hard to find at newer dim sum places.

We are witnessing a slow death of Hong Kong’s traditional heritage. The disappearing snacks are the most obvious victims. Whenever a small shop closes down, it takes something near and dear from the neighbourhood. The not-so-obvious casualties are the unique ways the shops made these foods, and the history behind the traditional signs and particular styles of decor.

And the most precious things we lose are the day-to-day intimate connections between the shop owners and their customers, and the community focal points that provide affordable everyday food.

Unlike the Jumbo Floating Restaurant, an iconic attraction that was recognised worldwide, these small shops have never tried to impress with their decor or price tags. Also, while the Jumbo mainly offered a tourist experience, these small shops provide neighbourhoods with convenience and value every day.

They welcome residents from all walks of life and have something for everyone. Over decades, they have constituted an inconspicuous social network that is localised, relatable, widespread, ordinary and welcoming. This is why they have become part of millions of people’s collective memories.