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Platform shoes with tiger heads, the character for longevity, and bats from the Guangxu period (1875 to 1908). Appliqué, silk satin; platforms: wood core covered with cotton, glass beads. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum

China’s Qing dynasty empresses, their lives, riches and erotica celebrated in book

Lavishly illustrated volume lifts the veil on life in the Forbidden City by looking at the robes, jewellery, and accessories empresses wore and the sensuous paintings that adorned their walls

David Wilson

Empresses of China’s Forbidden City, 1644–1912

edited by Daisy Yiyou Wang and Jan Stuart

Yale University Press

3.5/5 stars

Nearly 200 spectacular artefacts – including ornate jewellery, intricately embroidered robes and portraits – picked from Beijing’s vast Palace Museum collection to illustrate the lives of empresses in China’s Qing dynasty feature in a new book.

Lavishly illustrated, Empresses of China’s Forbidden City, 1644-1912 emphasises the key roles the wives of China’s imperial rulers played in court life and the cosmopolitan culture of the age.

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“To many people, Qing imperial women lived in a mysterious, yet colourful world. In the official history and archives of the Qing imperial court, empresses and other consorts were largely overshadowed by emperors, who were often judged by their political achievements. Despite the patriarchal structure of the Qing imperial court, a few women stood out and played an important role in history,” Palace Museum director Shan Jixiang writes in the introduction to the book, which is edited by Daisy Yiyou Wang and Jan Stuart.

The book is an accompaniment to a major international exhibition at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, Massachusetts, which coincides with the 40th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between the United States and China.

Court hat with phoenixes. Probably Imperial Workshop, Beijing, 18th or 19th century, sable, velvet, silk floss, pearls, tiger’s-eye stone, lapis lazuli, glass, birch bark and metal with gilding, and kingfisher feather. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum

Many of the items are tastefully erotic. Stuart points to Yinzhen’s Twelve Ladies, a series of paintings by 18th century artists of the imperial court.

“Images that hint at physical union and its potential result abound in Yinzhen’s Twelve Ladies. Butterflies fly wing to wing and penetrate a flower, two amorous cats cavort, and a pair of goldfish swim together,” she writes.

Drinking Tea from Yinzhen’s Twelve Ladies, a series of paintings from 1709-23 by court painters, possibly including Zhang Zhen or his son Zhang Weibang; hanging scroll, ink and colour on silk. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum

In a painting of a woman gazing into a mirror, the red glazed bowl beside her contains a fragrant fruit offered for good luck at temples during Chinese New Year.

“However, the fruit also has a hidden meaning. Its shape is suggestive of female genitalia, so Qing painters often appropriated it as sign of sexual availability,” Stuart writes.

Looking at Plum Blossoms from Yinzhen’s Twelve Ladies, a series of paintings from 1709-23 by court painters, possibly including Zhang Zhen or his son Zhang Weibang; hanging scroll, ink and colour on silk. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum

The book features essays and entries by co-editor Wang and several other scholars: Lin Shu, Luk Yu-ping, Ying-chen Peng, Ren Wanping and Evelyn Rawski.

Rawski evokes just how relentlessly hierarchical court life was. A consort’s rank decided the quantities of robes, jewellery, stipends, and servants assigned to her, with tiny gradations marking status distinctions.

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For instance, the empress dowager was given 12 maids, the empress 10 maids, and so on down to the lowest-ranking consort, who might have just one.

Hairpin with figure and vase (18th or 19th century): pearls, sapphire, coral, turquoise, kingfisher feather, and silver with gilding. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum

The publication also features essays and entries by co-editor Daisy Yiyou Wang and several other scholars: Lin Shu, Luk Yu-ping, Ying-chen Peng, Ren Wanping and Evelyn Rawski.

Rawski evokes just how relentlessly hierarchical court life was. A consort’s rank decided the quantities of robes, jewellery, stipends, and servants assigned to her, with tiny gradations marking status distinctions.

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For instance, the empress dowager was given 12 maids, the empress 10 maids, and so on down to the lowest-ranking consort, who might have just one. Each consort was allocated eunuchs and nurses along with female slaves who conducted menial tasks including needlework, fetching water, lighting lamps, and readying offerings for altars.

Pair of socks with phoenixes and other birds. Workshop, probably Jiangsu or Zhejiang province, Kangxi period, 1662–1722, embroidery, polychrome, metallic-wrapped, and peacock-filament-wrapped threads on silk satin with silk damask and silk lining. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum

Not long after the Empress Dowager Cixi died in 1908, China’s last dynasty would be supplanted by the Republic of China. “In the next decades, women in China would step out of the inner quarters and participate in politics as individuals rather than as annexes to men who wielded authority in the name of filial piety,” notes American University scholar Ying-chen Peng.

If the loss of all the grandeur and colour seems sad, Empresses of China’s Forbidden City recalls an era that was much more glamorous and romantic – for the lucky few at least.

Festive robe with bats, clouds, and the character for longevity. Probably Imperial Silk Manufactory, Nanjing (weaving), and Imperial Workshop, Beijing (tailoring), Qianlong period, 1785 or earlier, patterned silk satin and embroidery, polychrome silk and metallic-wrapped threads on silk fabric. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum
Hairpin with crab and reed. Daoguang period, 1834 or earlier, jade (nephrite), kingfisher feather, pearls, ruby, and silver with gilding. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum
Pair of bracelets with bats, peaches, and flowers. Probably 19th or early 20th century, tortoiseshell with coral, kingfisher feather, pearls, ruby, jadeite, tourmaline, and silver with gilding. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum
Lobed fan with cranes, peaches, and rocks from the Qianlong period (1736 to 1795). Appliqué, silk fabric on silk gauze with pigments. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum
Festive headdress with phoenixes and peonies. Probably Imperial Workshop, Beijing, Tongzhi or Guangxu period, probably 1872 or 1888/1889, silver with gilding, kingfisher feather, pearls, coral, jadeite, ruby, sapphire, tourmaline, turquoise, lapis lazuli, and glass. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum
Festive robe with bats, lotuses, and the character for longevity. Probably Imperial Silk Manufactory, Suzhou (embroidery), and Imperial Workshop, Beijing (tailoring), Jiaqing period, 1796 to 1820, embroidery, polychrome and metal-wrapped silk threads on silk tabby. Photo: courtesy of the Palace Museum
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