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Global Impact: food as identity is nothing new – but for the Asian diaspora, the world is finally listening

  • Global Impact is a fortnightly curated newsletter featuring a news topic originating in China with a significant macro impact for our newsreaders around the world
  • In this edition, we look at how food has played a role in providing support and community for marginalised groups of society

Reading Time:8 minutes
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In this edition of the Global Impact newsletter, we look at how food has played a role in providing support and community for marginalised groups of society. Photo: Mister Jiu’s

March 31, 2021, saw the beginning of the Stop Asian Hate movement, a roiling series of demonstrations across the United States – as well as major cities around the world – to protest against the sharp rise of violence targeting the Asian-American and Pacific Islander community.

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The movement highlighted the injustices and discrimination they faced in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, when a terrifying number of accounts of individuals being attacked, and Chinese and Asian businesses targeted and vandalised, became part of the regular news cycle.

Amid the darkness, stories of resilience and communities banding together came to the fore. And perhaps one of the unintended consequences of trauma is a renewed sense of kinship and identity among those who shared the experience.
Communities such as Subtle Asian Baking, a Covid-era social media group originally created to share baking tips and recipes, quickly became the proofing bowl of social activism as members leveraged the growing platform to raise awareness and funds for marginalised groups.

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Talking Post: Chef Gaggan Anand on ‘food racism’ and the future of fine dining, with Yonden Lhatoo

Talking Post: Chef Gaggan Anand on ‘food racism’ and the future of fine dining, with Yonden Lhatoo

For others, revisiting the root of cultural shame helped them to heal – and a proliferation of memoir-based cookbooks released in 2022 have touched upon Asian identity and all its complexities through the lens of food.

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What does it mean to be “Asian” for a chef who is born in Singapore to a Kashmiri father and a mother of Chinese-Filipino descent, with Eurasian and Indonesian grandparents? Or to an immigrant who, as a child, denies her Hunanese background in desperation to fit into modern-day Australia?

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