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Food and Drinks
Lifestyle100 Top Tables

Drink in Focus: DDL Old Fashioned at Terrible Baby

Bar manager Axel Gonzalez reimagines a classic cocktail with his Argentinian roots, Conspiracy Chocolate, Ezra Brooks and Michter’s rye at Eaton HK

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DDL Old Fashioned by Terrible Baby is a tribute to bar manager Axel Gonzalez’s roots. Photo: Handout
Josiah Ng

If there’s anything Terrible Baby is known for – besides being one of the best bars on the Kowloon side for its signature cocktails or expansive terrace – it is for the bar’s love for Hong Kong and creating dada-inspired menus.

In a major update to Terrible Baby’s menu, bar manager Axel Gonzalez and his team trimmed the selection to 16 signatures, mapped against five pillars of flavour – herbal, sour, spicy, sweet and umami – and inspired by Hong Kong’s past as well as its present. There are the clear nods, like the Dong Ling Cha, which does include Vita sparkling lemon tea, or the Ta-boo, which was made in collaboration with Taboocha. But for us, there is one drink that brings Gonzalez’s background, a touch of Hong Kong, and a strong flavour all together – the DDL Old Fashioned.
Terrible Baby’s new menu has been trimmed to 16 signature selections. Photo: Handout
Terrible Baby’s new menu has been trimmed to 16 signature selections. Photo: Handout

The core of the drink is its split base of rye and bourbon whiskey. The 30ml of Michter’s rye is fat-washed with dulce de leche, a caramelised milk with an incredibly deep sweetness that’s a quintessential Argentinian dessert. “In Argentina, it is a cultural staple,” Gonzalez explains. “Ask anyone about their favourite desserts and it’s almost guaranteed to be in the top three. When we say ‘Argentinian-style Old Fashioned’, we’re nodding to that everyday indulgence. It’s a way of infusing the cocktail with the warmth of Argentine home life.”

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The result is the addition of 20ml 99-proof Ezra Brooks bourbon for a bit of kick, and trace amounts of Bob’s Chocolate Bitters and orgeat – a syrup made from almond juice, sugar and rose water – to balance flavours. “We tried fat-washing dark rum and bourbon,” Gonzalez shares, “but the results were overly sweet and cloying. Michter’s rye, with its drier, spicier character, absorbed the dulce de leche’s richness without losing structure. Adding the high-proof Ezra Brooks brought back that bold, boozy backbone that an Old Fashioned deserves.”

Axel Gonzalez, Terrible Baby’s bar manager, bases the establishment’s new drinks on five pillars of flavour. Photo: Handout
Axel Gonzalez, Terrible Baby’s bar manager, bases the establishment’s new drinks on five pillars of flavour. Photo: Handout
But while Gonzalez hails from Argentina, he expresses the best of Hong Kong via the drink’s finishing touch: a raspberry bonbon made collaboratively with local bean-to-bar chocolatier Conspiracy Chocolate, whose co-founders Amit Oz and Celine Herren met in Hong Kong and have lived in the city for more than a decade.
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“They source their cacao from family-owned farms in Vietnam through a direct supplier chain, ensuring a transparent and ethical supply,” Gonzalez explains. The beans are converted to chocolate over a gruelling five-day process, then injected with a fresh raspberry paste. “I had several tastings with Amit,” Gonzalez says. “The raspberry bonbon stood out for its bright tangy contrast to the cocktail’s deep, buttery richness.”

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