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Food and Drinks
Lifestyle100 Top Tables

Whey’s new chef is bringing Western flair to Singaporean hawker classics

While maintaining tradition, Keith Teo brings diverse influences to the Sheung Wan, Hong Kong, restaurant – a bastion of elevated Singaporean cuisine

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Cured mackerel with tomato sambal and Asam fish broth – one of Keith Teo’s new dishes. Photos: Jocelyn Tam
Andrew Fowler
Durian ice cream with caviar. On paper, it feels gauche, an unnecessarily luxurious way to elevate an otherwise straightforward and common dessert. Take a bite, though, and the caviar coaxes out the savoury elements of the durian, balanced by the fruit’s natural sweetness and highlighted by the roe’s clean salinity, all with a pleasing textural contrast. Suddenly, a faintly ridiculous dessert makes perfect sense.

This playful juxtaposition has been a signature of Whey, Sheung Wan’s celebrated contemporary Singaporean restaurant, since opening under chef Barry Quek in 2021. The Alain Ducasse-trained chef has excelled at delivering classic Singaporean hawker-centre flavours with creativity via modern French techniques.

Keith Teo, head chef at Whey. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Keith Teo, head chef at Whey. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
After five years at the helm, founder chef Quek is looking to train a new generation. In that spirit, fellow Singaporean Keith Teo, formerly of Sol, has been appointed head chef and will take the reins of the day-to-day operations.

With Quek still deeply involved at Whey, Teo knows he must strike a delicate balance. “I think the hardest part of the job will be trying to find a line between what customers want and what Barry also wants,” he says.

Both chefs may be from Singapore, but their culinary backgrounds and inspirations are starkly different. “My father’s from Indonesia,” Teo reveals, “so I have more Peranakan influence [than Barry].” The multicultural influences run deep. Teo’s parents spent time in Canada, and his mother, whom he credits with inspiring him to become a chef, was just as likely to cook lasagne as fried rice. “My mother incorporated a lot of Western food [into meals]. That’s actually why I took up Western cuisine at culinary school.”

Tilefish with sambal okra and eggplant purée. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
Tilefish with sambal okra and eggplant purée. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

This Western foundation became the bedrock of Teo’s early career. He cut his teeth during an eight-month internship in France. Having acquired a taste for European fine dining, he returned home to work at Singapore’s most acclaimed French restaurant, the three-Michelin-starred Odette. Then he returned to Europe to serve as a junior sous chef at Frog by Adam Handling in London, which holds one Michelin star.

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