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Macau’s lost identity in focus at its Venice Biennale pavilion, an exile’s take on casino culture

  • Artist Heidi Lau watched from afar as Macau’s first mega casinos ‘just suddenly emerged from the muddy swamps of Cotai’
  • Her art at the Macau Pavilion in the Venice Biennale is a reaction to the big changes in her home city, which she feels have erased its history and identity

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Curator Lam Sio-man (left) and artist Heidi Lau in the Macau pavilion at the 58th Venice Biennale. Lau’s exhibition considers the history and identity Macau’s casino expansion erased in her eyes. Photo: Enid Tsui
Enid Tsui

Unlike neighbouring Hong Kong’s big-budget productions, Macau’s pavilion at the Venice Biennale, which in Venice is also adjacent to its big-city neighbour’s, tends to be a quiet affair that is easily overlooked. (Macau and Hong Kong have official representation at the art fair despite not being countries.)

Macau’s choice of artist this year makes for an especially meaningful dialogue with Hong Kong artist Shirley Tse’s exhibition next door. Heidi Lau, like Tse, is based in the United States. The ceramic artist went to New York to study in 2004 but goes back to see family at least once a year – which is why the changes the city has undergone seem more dramatic to her than if she were living there.

“The first mega casinos opened just after I left. It seemed these gargantuan structures just suddenly emerged from the muddy swamps of Cotai. That was probably the most shocking to me. But ever since then, I feel that the city has changed every time I visit,” she said at the recent opening of the Macau pavilion.

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The changes have had a material impact on her family, whose small, independent perfumery was knocked out of business when large beauty chains from Hong Kong moved in to target wealthy gamblers from China.

The Primordial Molder (2019), by Heidi Lau, part of “Apparition”, Macau's presentation at this year’s Venice Biennale. Photo: Enid Tsui
The Primordial Molder (2019), by Heidi Lau, part of “Apparition”, Macau's presentation at this year’s Venice Biennale. Photo: Enid Tsui
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In the US, Macau’s nickname Las Vegas of the East is all people know about her home city, if they have heard of it at all. For Lau, it is as if the identity and history of supposedly postcolonial Macau (which Portugal returned to China in 1999) before the casino expansion is being denied. That identity, that history, is what she wants to invoke with her Venice creations.

The ceramic pieces in her exhibition, called Apparition, resemble creatures rising from a swamp. There are references to the Taoist customs that her family follow and the myths passed down by her grandmother. In a section ironically called “Learning from Casino” is a piece called People Mountain People Ocean; its title in Chinese means a crowd packed to the gills.

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