How Penang’s art scene was killed by Instagram tourists and gentrification, sparked by a single mural
- The street art revolution that transformed the Malaysian island into a celebrated artistic hub has also caused the downfall of its arts scene
- George Town, the island’s capital, is now full of Instagram tourists, hipsters and businesses that cater to them, warping the soul of the town
It’s Saturday night at Narrow Marrow, a hipster cafe in George Town, the capital of Penang island in Malaysia. Among the patrons are Malaysian mural artists Bibichun and Kang Bla Bla, as well as a number of other local creatives. They sit on low chairs while indie and electronic music blares from speakers overhead, rolling cigarettes and sipping coffees and coconut toddy mojitos until the wee hours.
That same crowd is likely to be spotted on Sunday afternoons selling their wares not far away at the Hin Bus Pop Up Sunday Market, located just behind Penang’s highest building, the Komtar Tower. The market, on the site of a former bus car park, attracts hipster tourists from all over, hoping to bring home some locally made art.
Looking at this commercial den, it is hard to believe that this was where Penang’s groundbreaking street art revolution broke out of the woodwork. Between 2014 and 2016, local and international artists found a spotlight here and transformed this once sleepy island into one of Southeast Asia’s most celebrated artistic hubs.
Today, however, things are different. A profusion of industrial chic outlets peddling overpriced espressos and yoga classes has transformed the soul of the town. While there is still a hint of that primeval spark at Hin Bus, the artists look tired and jaded.