Advertisement
Chinese culture
LifestyleChinese culture

A Korean horsehair underskirt sparked a fashion frenzy in China during the Ming dynasty

The maweiqun, an underskirt made from horsehair, was so popular in the Ming dynasty that the government banned it

4-MIN READ4-MIN
Listen
Ming Emperor Xianzong’s Tour of the Lantern Festival is a painting that depicts Emperor Chenghua in 1485 with eunuchs and palace maids portrayed wearing skirts that look like umbrellas spread out. South Korean researcher Koo Do-young proposes that they are wearing mamigun, the Korean originator to the Chinese maweiqun.
Charmaine Yu
From auspicious horse-themed phrases and couplets to whether your luck is in, check out our Year of the Horse 2026 series to discover all you need to know about the coming Lunar New Year.

The crinoline – a stiff petticoat that provides voluminous structure under a gown – was a staple of 19th-century European fashion. Although the version most recognisable to people today is the crinoline cage, these petticoats were originally made out of wefts of horsehair.

According to scholars of Chinese and Korean history, horsehair underskirts in Asia significantly predate European crinolines.

Advertisement

Wang Qi (1432-1499), a Ming dynasty writer and court recorder, documented the existence of maweiqun in his collection of notes, Yupu Zaji.

“The structure of the skirt consists of hair from the tails of horses tied over the underwear,” wrote Wang. “Those who are fat wear one skirt, and those who are slim wear two or three skirts, making the overall garment like an umbrella.”

Visitors dressed in traditional Korean attire at the Gyeongbokgung Palace, the main royal palace during the Joseon dynasty, in Seoul, South Korea, in 2019. Photo: AP
Visitors dressed in traditional Korean attire at the Gyeongbokgung Palace, the main royal palace during the Joseon dynasty, in Seoul, South Korea, in 2019. Photo: AP
Like the European crinoline, the maweiqun – not to be confused with the Chinese pleated skirt mamianqun – was used to frame a fashionable silhouette for men’s and women’s attire.
SCMP Series
[ 16 of 77 ]
Advertisement
Select Voice
Select Speed
1.00x