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Lessons from China's history
LifestyleChinese culture
Reflections
Wee Kek Koon

The history of China’s hospitality industry and how its inns evolved over time

Private inns served travelling merchants in ancient China and grew in number and sophistication as the economy and infrastructure expanded

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A Chinese guest house in Pingyao Ancient City in China’s Shanxi province. The country’s hospitality industry was sophisticated even centuries ago, with private inns that catered to the changing needs of travellers as the economy and transport networks grew. Photo: Getty Images
Having lived his whole life in the modern cities of Singapore and Hong Kong, Wee Kek Koon has an inexplicable fascination with the past.

Just when I thought I had exhausted my appetite for buffets, a Sunday brunch at a French restaurant in Crowne Plaza Kuala Lumpur proved a delightful corrective. There was free-flowing sparkling wine, a generous spread and a parade of desserts that made restraint all but impossible.

I am told that another restaurant in the same hotel offers a Saturday “Straits of Malaya” buffet showcasing Malay cuisine. The prospect is enticing, though it will have to wait a few weekends. At my age, one must eat responsibly.

Between multiple courses that Sunday, I took a stroll – which is good for digestion, as one likes to think – through the relatively new hotel.

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The Petronas Twin Towers, a mere 10-minute walk away, loomed impressively through the windows. The interiors of the hotel looked quite comfortable and luxurious. It smelled nice too – probably a signature scent concocted especially for the premises, de rigueur nowadays for any shopping centre and hotel worth its salt.

Such carefully orchestrated hospitality may feel modern, yet long before the rise of contemporary hotels, China developed a remarkably diverse world of private inns shaped by commerce and sustained by the enduring need for shelter along the road.

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As early as the Shang period (c.1600BC-1046BC), itinerant merchants were travelling widely, creating demand for lodging. By the Warring States period (475BC-221BC), inns had proliferated to the point of attracting official scrutiny.
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