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For more than 30 days, Tobias Schlegl walked the Camino de Santiago – the world’s most famous network of pilgrimage routes – with his 73-year-old mother, Sieglinde.
She had long dreamed of walking the Camino, also known as the Way of St James, and Schlegl, a journalist and paramedic, wanted to reconnect with her.
The historic routes, which date back to the 9th century, extend from different European countries and lead to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
What followed was a 700km (435-mile) journey of laughter, exhaustion, pain – and unexpected joy.












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A post shared by Tobi Schlegl (@tobischlegl)



“The Camino really hurts. I don’t want to romanticise it – it was real suffering,” Schlegl, who is based in Germany, says.
Now 47, he has written a book published in German about their journey together: Leichtes Herz und schwere Beine (“Light Heart and Heavy Legs”).
The big theme is this: get to know your ageing parents before it’s too late. That’s what I hope people take away. And it doesn’t have to be done on the Camino.
Tobias Schlegl
Starting in the Spanish city of Pamplona and ending in the city of Santiago de Compostela, the mother and son duo walked for 34 days along a route known as the French Way, or the Camino Frances.
The journey brought moments of joy and comfort, but also arguments and doubt – and ultimately, a new closeness.
“My mum surprised me,” Schlegl admits. “She’s funnier and more adventurous than I ever expected. She’s incredibly strong. Honestly, I didn’t really know who she was before.”
The shared experience brought them closer than ever. “We’ve upgraded our bond. Now, we understand each other better. Often just a glance is enough.”
Things were not always smooth. “We had two proper arguments – big ones – but honestly, that’s not bad for a month together.”

The Camino left its mark. “Now I’ve got the bug. I’d love to do the northern route next, along the coast. I’d do it again just for the rush.”
On day 12, he says, he experienced a “real pilgrimage high”.
Schlegl chose not to prepare too much before setting off. “I didn’t read any guides … I didn’t want to know too much – I wanted the adventure. And looking back, I’m glad we went in blind.”
Some half a million people make a pilgrimage along the Way of St James every year. The Camino Frances, stretching across northern Spain, is the most well-known route.
With its wide meadows, scenic bays and charming villages, it attracts both spiritual pilgrims and hiking enthusiasts.

In 2022, the Oficina del Peregrino, or Pilgrim’s Reception Office, issued over 430,000 certificates to pilgrims who completed the route. That number rose to nearly 500,000 in 2024.
With tourism often outweighing spiritual motivation, some residents of Santiago de Compostela are increasingly frustrated.
Schlegl’s book about his journey with his mother is not an adventure novel, and it does not claim to be.
Instead, it is a sincere, sometimes funny, diary of a very human journey.
I didn’t want to find myself. I wanted to find out who my mum really is.
Tobias Schlegl
“Sleeping, eating, hiking. And in between: suffering, complaining – and yes, enjoying it all,” he says with a smile.
For experienced pilgrims or those planning their own Camino, Schlegl shares relatable insights from where to eat non-vegan local cuisine, the convenience of luggage services, crowded hostels and smartphone reservations.
His diet? “Four or five chocolate croissants a day. I still love them.”

At its heart, the book and Schlegl’s main takeaway from his pilgrimage is a reflection on family, ageing and reconnection.
Though the journey recharged him and gave him new perspective, he says his goal was never self-discovery.
“I didn’t want to find myself. I wanted to find out who my mum really is.”
With wit, warmth and a journalist’s curiosity, his account offers readers not just a glimpse of the Camino – but also of what happens when two people walk side by side, free from distraction and finally begin to see each other clearly.
“The big theme is this: get to know your ageing parents before it’s too late. That’s what I hope people take away. And it doesn’t have to be done on the Camino.”


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Mother-son bond strengthened by 700km walk on Spain’s Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route

Tobias Schlegl walked the Camino de Santiago with his 73-year-old mother, Sieglinde. Photo: X/@Tobias Schlegl

Tobias Schlegl’s relationship with his mother, though warm, lacked depth – until they set out together to walk a historic pilgrimage route through northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Photo: X/Tobias Schlegl

The cover of Schlegl’s book on the journey he took with his mother. Photo: X/Tobias Schlegl

Schlegl says he chose not to prepare too much before setting off. Photo: X/@Tobias Schlegl

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Tobias Schlegl’s relationship with his mother, though warm, lacked real depth – until they set out together on a historic pilgrimage route


Tobias Schlegl’s relationship with his mother, though warm, lacked real depth – until they set out together on a historic pilgrimage route.


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Mother-son bond strengthened by 700km walk on Spain’s Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Tobias Schlegl’s relationship with his mother, though warm, lacked real depth – until they set out together on a historic pilgrimage route

Tobias Schlegl’s relationship with his mother, though warm, lacked real depth – until they set out together on a historic pilgrimage route