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Women’s brands return to Tokyo Fashion Week, with handmade detailing and rich textures the biggest trends

After several seasons of menswear lines dominating the catwalks, female designers made a welcome return with stunning collections from newcomer THE Dallas and rising stars Akiko Aoki and Yohei Ohno

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One of the highlights at Tokyo Fashion Week was THE Dallas collection. Photo: ©Japan Fashion Week Organization
Kelly Wetherille

The latest autumn season of Tokyo Fashion Week was its biggest ever, with nearly 60 shows on the calendar. Brands were showcased from not only across Japan, but also from South Korea, Indonesia, and Europe during the six-day event.

It was the fourth season with Amazon as the title sponsor, and the e-commerce giant continued to draw crowds with its At Tokyo programme, which supports brands being shown that normally would not have taken part in the event.

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This season, it chose labels including Fashion Prize of Tokyo winner Mame Kurogouchi, newcomer TTT_MSW, and LVMH Prize finalist Ambush. It also worked with popular streetwear brand Neighborhood on a music event, which included a live performance from German band Atari Teenage Riot.

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After several seasons of menswear brands dominating the catwalks, women’s brands made a comeback in Tokyo, with newcomer THE Dallas and rising stars Akiko Aoki and Yohei Ohno some of the most talked-about collections. Trends this autumn included handmade detailing, rich textures, unconventional styling, and oversized, often sculptural silhouettes.

Here are some of the highlights of the season.

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A look from Mame Kurogouchi. Photo: ©At Tokyo Mame Kurogouchi
A look from Mame Kurogouchi. Photo: ©At Tokyo Mame Kurogouchi
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