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Why Hong Kong’s beauty industry needs to be more inclusive of diversity

If your complexion is much fairer or darker than the average Hongkonger, specific make-up products will be hard to find. The cosmetics industry needs to step up its game in terms of diversity and inclusion

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Christian Louboutin expanded the colours of its Nude patent shoes collection in 2017.

In 2013, Christian Louboutin launched a collection of nude patent shoes that were available in five hues to accommodate the different shades of nude on women of various skin types. In 2017 it was expanded to seven shades. Here in Hong Kong those hues are more difficult to find, and it’s not just for shoes, either.

“Stockings! Where are the nude stockings?” Asks Joanne Lam, a trainee lawyer whose tan speaks of weekend hikes and holidays by the pool. “And don’t get me started on nude underwear. It’d be nice to find something that is actually nude for me.”

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But one can argue that what a beauty brand carries is determined by a city’s demographic, and its dominant population. In Hong Kong, that would be ethnically Chinese people, whose beauty ideals still adhere strongly to the notion that fairer skin is more beautiful.

The BAREPRO 16-hour full coverage concealer comes in 15 shades, but Hong Kong only carries six shades between 02 and 08.
The BAREPRO 16-hour full coverage concealer comes in 15 shades, but Hong Kong only carries six shades between 02 and 08.

Ryuko Lau, senior artist at MAC Cosmetics, explains that while MAC foundations have anywhere between nine and 53 shades, depending on the product, many of those are “‘in-between shades”, with minor differences meant for professional use.

“In Asian markets, we have selected the most common shades that would suit the majority of our customers,” Lau says.

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This is why you’ll often find only part of a product’s range at any MAC store in Hong Kong. In fact, that is common practice for many brands, including those known for inclusive shade ranges such as Nars and Estee Lauder. Thankfully, we’re seeing the beginning of a shift towards greater inclusion.

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