From France to China, how plants are changing the face of anti-ageing skincare
- Chanel’s two latest products use flowers native to the southern French Alps in attempts to boost the skin from beneath the surface
- The company already sources silver needles from China and has an “open-sky lab” set up in the country to research more plants
The conversation around anti-ageing skincare is changing fast and brands are creating products that don’t just fight against wrinkles but strengthen the skin from the inside out.
“It’s definitely about a more positive approach that encourages women to achieve beautiful and glowing skin on all levels,” says Armelle Souraud, international scientific communications director at Chanel. “Products today not only have to work deeply into the skin, but also have an immediate effect on the surface. A woman’s face is a reflection of what’s happening on the inside, which is why it’s important to adopt a holistic approach, and really understand this connection between beauty and well-being.”
This is the premise behind the newest additions to Chanel’s popular Sublimage line. Launched in 2006, the line boasts a dedicated following thanks to its use of vanilla planifolia, a specific vanilla extracted from the species of an orchid plant from Madagascar.
In 2010 the company initiated a research programme in the south of France to study over 500 plants in what they refer to as an “open-sky laboratory”. Since then they have identified 60 active botanical extracts that they then combine with cutting-edge technologies developed in three research labs in France, Japan and the US. Two of the most active extracts are featured in the line’s two latest products: L’Essence Fondamentale and L’Essence Lumiere.
The first features solidago as its star ingredient, while the second, which will be released in February, contains anthyllis. Both are flowers native to the southern French Alps, but it took Chanel some time to develop plants it could use in its own products.
“With active ingredients it sometimes takes several years for development as we cultivate the plants ourselves and create our own supply chain to ensure things such as traceability,” says Nicola Fuzzati, director of active ingredients research at Chanel. “Since we are working with nature we have to be careful – we don’t use chemicals and usually meet challenges.