Jewellery designer Nadine Ghosn puts humorous twist on everyday items – ‘I like provoking’, she says
- Father Carlos Ghosn’s habit of bringing keepsakes back from his travels kindled Lebanese-Brazilian’s interest in jewels as ‘a memory keeper’ when she was young
- A chance encounter got her into designing jewellery, and her quirky creations soon found a following. Retailers noticed. Now she’s eyeing a move to Hong Kong
“I entered the jewellery space when people were ready for something new and women were independent enough that they could buy it themselves. I also brought a simple perspective that resonated with our generation. I wanted [my designs] to be accessible, humorous and very much of our time. One of the aspects of jewellery I love is that it’s telling of our culture,” explains the 29-year-old.
Ghosn’s designs are not for conservative socialites or women looking for a status symbol. Since she launched her brand in 2016, she has created conversation starters such as a battery level indicator pendant using diamonds to indicate how much “power” is left; sushi and edamame charms covered in colourful precious gems; and an earring featuring the words “shut up” and an arrow pointing upwards, encrusted in diamonds.
Then there was the Burger ring, which not only landed her the innovation award at industry trade show Couture in 2017, but a high-profile collaboration with American fast food restaurant chain McDonald’s a year later. It features seven rings – each one representing an element of the burger, from the bun to the patty – which, when stacked together, form a very expensive, albeit decadent burger.
“I was in New York and everyone was crazy about burgers. I thought it could be a fun thing to create, especially because it could be customisable. I like the idea of doing something that was provoking and cool at a time when the industry is conventional. It later became my DNA,” she says.
She studied art and economics at Stanford University and worked as a consultant for Boston Consultancy Group for two years. Later she got a taste of luxury and joined a management programme at French luxury fashion house Hermès. It was during a holiday in Beirut, Lebanon, that everything changed.
“I went to buy jewellery for my sister and I happened to speak to the store head, who was also a manufacturer. He told me how no one had invested in craftsmanship for the past 20 years. Everything came together – I wanted to learn a tangible skill, and I also knew I could make a social impact at the same time.
“We basically agreed I would give him a certain amount of work so he could retain two or three craftsmen a year,” she says.
And so her education began. Instead of going to school, she spent the next two months based in the atelier learning the ins and outs of jewellery making. Only then did she complete a course at the Gemological Institute of America in California, after which she was ready to branch out on her own.
“I learned so much from [the craftsmen] and vice versa, as I was constantly pushing what they can do, and forcing them to become more resourceful. I was the only woman in an atelier of 35 men, so creating a relationship with them was also culturally challenging. Now we are each other’s cheerleaders,” she says.
Her first collection, which featured bestsellers like the Shut Up earring and headphone necklace, debuted online and was immediately picked up by famed Parisian boutique Colette. Ghosn built up her presence on social media – she was and still is a one-woman show – preferring her designs to do the talking.
Other high-profile retailers followed the lead of Colette – now closed – including Le Bon Marché, The Webster and Moda Operandi.
“Unlike fashion, there’s not a set dynamic of how fast you need to introduce collections. I decided I wanted to do one a year and I got a lot resistance from retailers who wanted newness. I didn’t want to do things this way.
“I [would] rather have a well thought-out concept and collection once a year than [be] creating just to sell or make retailers happy,” she says.
Success and accolades have followed, including winning the DDFC/Vogue Fashion Prize sponsored by Vogue Arabia in 2017. In May 2019 she launched her third collection, the Too Cool for School series, featuring gold- and gem-studded pencils and Bic pens that have been transformed into rings and bracelets; protractor earrings; and necklaces made from interconnected 18-carat gold paper clips. It’s available on her website.
She is looking to explore new markets, including Asia, which is why she has made the decision to base herself in Hong Kong in the near future.
“There is huge potential in Asia, and Hong Kong is one of the hubs in jewellery in terms of culture, aesthetics and accessories. I feel the city hasn’t necessarily leveraged the talent of young designers yet.”
Like most emerging designers, Ghosn acknowledges that the market has become increasingly crowded in recent years, which is why she hopes to bring her talent to other brands and develop more collaborations with other industries.
“In the past no one even knew the people behind a brand’s jewellery, but now more designers are being given a voice. My future goal would be to work into one of these companies, while still being my own entity,” she says.