The next wave of socially conscious consumerism in the fashion industry will be driven by inclusion. Inclusion in fashion used to mean casting one or two black models for catwalk shows and advertising campaigns, but nowadays models of many different ethnicities can be found on catwalks and billboards around the world. Fashion has also taken measures to become more inclusive in terms of body types, with the American market leading the increase in sizing options available to consumers. Brands such as Universal Standard have been praised for producing each of their garments in sizes from 00 to 40, and figures such as Rihanna have upended traditional notions of ideal body type. For all this inclusiveness, other groups remain marginalised. One such group, of people with intellectual and developmental disabilities (IDD), have been under-represented in fashion, but that is beginning to change. Brands such as Spain-based Zurita, which promotes “Human(e) Fashion”, are leading the way on inclusive fashion and beauty in China; with 85 million people in the country living with disabilities, Zurita’s recent advertising campaign in China was not only socially significant, but could have economic ramifications given their spending power. Zurita’s campaign features Chinese models with IDD; while this may come across as a public relations stunt, it stems from the company’s genuine belief that beauty comes in all forms, and that making the IDD community visible is fundamental to dispelling stereotypes and integrating its members in mainstream society. Monica Muriel, founder of Zurita, explains: “At Zurita we believe inclusivity means acknowledging everybody's differences and not pretending that everyone is the same, but at the same time [we have to] understand that what we have in common is more important than any other difference and at the end of the day, people are people.” With this belief in everyone’s individual humanity and beauty, the brand has always featured “everyday” women in its advertisements. But its latest fashion shoot has a particularly strong impact. It features women with IDD who work at the Inclusion Factory – the first factory in China dedicated to the employment and training of people with intellectual disabilities – and boldly states “We Are Designed for Success”. Zurita will donate 25 per cent of proceeds from the sale of styles from the featured collection to Inclusion Factory, which mainly produces automotive parts. How Snapchat dysmorphia drives teens to plastic surgery Currently, there are very few representations of consumers with IDD in the fashion industry, which is why this campaign is so significant. In a values-driven consumer market, Zurita is well-positioned to resonate with its customers. One such Zurita customer, Tingting Yu, appreciates the fact that the brand has paid attention to social issues such as addressing the needs of the IDD community and female independence, and believes that fashion must be diversified to reflect the diversity of humankind. It is all very well fashion brands being inclusive, but if fashion media do not draw attention to inclusion and represent different types of beauty, the impact will be limited. A UK publication, Grazia , brought together five women with different impairments – a model, a designer, a dancer, and two athletes – for its Big Fashion Issue last year to expose its readers to different notions of beauty. This fashion shoot reached young people with disabilities around the world and showed them they are not only beautiful enough to be in a magazine but can become whatever they want to be. One way fashion designers can address their needs is by making clothes more functional and user-friendly. Ways to do this include using tear-away tags, zip-less clothes or one-handed zips, magnetic buttons, Velcro or bungee cord closures, adjustable hems, and extremely soft fabrics with minimal seams to increase comfort, specifically for those with sensory processing disorder (SPD). Tommy Hilfiger is one of the few global fashion brands to cater to special-needs customers with a seasonal collection, Tommy Adaptive, which launched in 2017 and includes garments with magnetic closures, adjustable hems, one-handed zips, and Velcro fastenings. Luxury labels such as Burberry and Prada have also created custom-made outfits for Sinead Burke, an Irishwoman 1.07 metres (3ft 6 inches) tall who has been very vocal about the fashion industry’s need to include consumers with disabilities. However, people with IDD don’t necessarily need their own, special brands that address these issues; rather, mainstream brands can adopt these design practices to become more inclusive. According to Liz Mayor, a 13-year-old American living with SPD, those with special needs “are just trying to fit in and be like everyone else”. If she was forced to buy brands that were only made for those with IDD, it might make her feel even less a part of mainstream society. Her fashion tastes are like those of many teenage girls in the United States; she favours labels such as Gucci, Lululemon, and Adidas. Buying these brands is a way for her to participate in mainstream society and express her personal sense of style, which, she says, “helps to define who I am”.