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Fila sweatshirt at Milan Fashion Week in 2019. The streetwear craze has helped propel retro brands back into the spotlight. Photo: Shutterstock

From Champion to Fila – why retro brands are here to stay thanks to streetwear movement

  • When streetwear started trending, luxury brands were among the first to embrace it. But younger clientele got their fix by seeking out nostalgic brands
  • The streetwear craze has helped propel retro brands back into the spotlight thanks to celebrities and influencers
Fashion

Analysts from Wells Fargo warned in July that demand for heritage sports brands, such as Champion and Fila, was dying. But on the same day, old school Italian tennis brand Sergio Tacchini proved otherwise by announcing the high-profile appointment of a new creative director, New York designer and co-founder of label Public School, Dao-Yi Chow.

“Maybe [the trend] is not as hot as it was three seasons ago, but streetwear isn’t just a trend any more, it’s a category that’s here to stay. These old school brands will always be a part of [streetwear],” explains Kevin Poon, co-founder of Hong Kong streetwear label Clot and retailer Juice.

“The demand [for old school brands] will continue but its success and growth depend on many factors, be it celebrity endorsements, collaborations or new ownership as we’ve seen with Fila.”

When streetwear became a trend several years ago, luxury brands were among the first to embrace this potentially lucrative trend. While labels such as Off-White, Vetements and Balenciaga appealed to customers with deep pockets, the younger clientele got their fix by seeking out nostalgic brands that gained popularity in the 1980s and 1990s.

Kappa men's campaign.

Celebrities and influencers also brought them to a new generation, with the likes of Gigi Hadid, Kanye West and Kylie Jenner mixing and matching their designer duds with throwback sweatshirts and sweatpants.

“Besides authenticity and familiarity [throwback] brands offer a legacy and have usually communicated their core values more frequently than newer brands,” says Petar Kujundzic, editorial director of Hypebeast.

“They also have the opportunity to couple their established and most popular designs with new contemporary trends that have stood the test of time and proven to be authentic.”

One key strengths of streetwear is its power to connect different cultures and entities.
Dao-Yi Chow

“The beauty of bridging a certain sense of familiarity, trust, and exclusivity with new energy and style is what attracts most people to these brands.”

Interestingly, a recent streetwear report published by Hypebeast indicates that the core customer group driving the streetwear growth hails mostly from Asia, especially China, South Korea and Japan.

While many were initially attracted to iconic designs such as logo sweatshirts and hoodies, this too is changing as the market becomes more competitive. Instead of bold logos and bright colours, customers are choosing pieces that help them express their individual style and personality.

Kappa China footwear boss on his love of sneakers, streetwear and pushing people’s buttons

“Logo pieces are technically an entry point for consumers – low hanging fruit if you will. Now it’s about the next step. That’s not to say they won’t go away, but there will be subtle changes to keep the customer coming back, be it new placements or designs,” Poon says.

While the jury is still out on whether the demand has peaked, Kujundzic says that those brands looking for long-term success need to explore new avenues through which they can connect with customers.

“Brands that have the key to timeless design, while being able to detect and connect with the pulse of time, are most likely to prosper moving forward. One key strength of streetwear is its power to connect different cultures and entities,” says Chow.

 

Five retro sportswear brands that have stood the test of time

1. Fila

Italian brand Fila was founded in the early 1900s as a textiles and knitwear company, but it wasn’t until the 1970s when it partnered with tennis greats such as John McEnroe and Bjorn Borg that it became a household name.

Since the early 2010s the brand has experienced a major comeback thanks, in part, to the ugly sneaker trend, which it pioneered in the 1990s with styles such as the Disruptor. Its apparel emblazoned with the iconic F-box logo is now a favourite with influencers and celebrities like Beyoncé.

Champion Century collection.

2. Champion

Anyone who grew up in the United States in the 1990s would remember the Champion sweatshirt. The US-based apparel manufacturer has attracted a new following by resurrecting classics like its Reverse Weave sweatshirts, which it has redesigned for the modern customer.

This year they are celebrating their 100th anniversary with the launch of the Century Collection, featuring new renditions of iconic styles and design elements taken from the brand’s 100-year history.

Kappa sweatpants. Photo: Shutterstock

3. Kappa

This Italian heritage brand made a name for itself as the official uniform provider for multiple international sporting teams, offering up bestsellers including brightly coloured hoodies, tracksuit bottoms with snap fastenings and polyester shorts. In the 1990s it became a favourite with pop stars and the like. Now its eye-catching back-to-back figurine logo has been spotted on the likes of Kylie and Kendall Jenner.
 

4. Le Coq Sportif

One of the oldest sportswear brands, Le Coq Sportif was founded in France in 1882. Known for its high-quality sports apparel, it was closely associated with dressing high-profile sports figures in cycling, tennis and football until 2010, when it started to make a comeback with the youth. Today it’s a favourite with hipsters thanks to its athletic-inspired designs that come with a fashionable French twist.

Ellesse tracksuits.

5. Ellesse

Another Italian heritage brand, which is now British owned, Ellesse was known for its skiwear in the 1970s. In the 1980s it launched its soon-to-be ubiquitous shell suit, which became especially popular with the British youth.

It continued to create sportswear garments with a fashion edge, and the brand even hired high-profile designers and collaborators including Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Its tracksuits are enjoying a revival with rappers and pop stars.

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Retro sports labels are brands are back in the spotlight
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